Last Remaining Jewel

Looking for a backcountry adventure you’ll soon not forget, spend some time in this secluded hideaway.

Whitewater Bay, nestled in the interior of Everglades National Park, is an absolute fish haven. Tucked deep into the wilderness, the bay provides the perfect habitat for escaping winter’s wrath, both for inshore gamefish and the fishermen chasing them. A profusion of secluded pools, creeks, and mangrove islands provide countless ambush points where your favorite inshore gamefish can be found, not to mention the miles of endless shorelines where one can spend a lifetime throwing a plug or fly.

During the harsh winter months, the bay may appear aptly named when winds whip the seclusion into a frothy mess, yet regardless how hard the wind howls throughout the waterway there are always places to find shelter from winter’s fury.

To reach Whitewater Bay one needs only to trailer a boat to Flamingo and launch on the north side of the dam. Then, the journey is as simple as following the markers along the Wilderness Waterway through Coot Bay, Tarpon Creek and finally into Whitewater. Though the entrance route is large enough to provide access to just about any bay boat, small skiffs drafting only inches will enable anglers to explore the real potential of this remote wilderness.

As you enter Whitewater, the bay’s beauty unfolds before your very eyes. The fairly large body of tannin colored water is usually teeming with life. Snook, reds, tarpon, and even a few largemouth bass are amongst the favorites inhabiting the expanse. Small creeks, secluded pools, and oyster bars are so numerous here one could spend decades fishing here and never hit the same point twice.

To access the remote portions of Whitewater it’s essential that the angler come prepared with a detailed chart, compass, and global positioning system. Even when equipped with these aids to navigation it’s still easy to lose your bearings in the winding streams and creeks. Therefore, proceed with caution and make mental notes of features that stand out amongst the mesmerizing sawgrass and mangroves.
Many of Whitewater Bay’s most productive winding creeks aren’t even located on charts and can only be found through a mix of exploration and luck. Many of these creeks abruptly lead to a dead-end or prove impassable, but the persistent angler will be well rewarded when one of the tucked away pockets of open water reveals itself.

Intact spider webs strung across branches leading into these small bays are good indicators that you’re entering where none have traveled in some time. Once found, these gems are often full of fish, many of which have spent their lives in total seclusion never having seen a fly or lure. These far backcountry snook, redfish and juvenile tarpon will often strike with a furious abandon seldom seen in their pressured counterparts. When one ventures further and further into Whitewater Bay and deeper into Everglades National Park, mangrove shorelines give way to sawgrass and the water becomes progressively less saline. It’s way back here where largemouth bass mingle side-by-side with their saltwater counterparts.

During the winter months, Whitewater Bay provides inshore gamefish and the forage they feed a refuge from cold winds and unsettled waters in the Gulf. To pinpoint the action in this never-ending maze of small ponds and creeks during the upcoming months, one only needs to apply the same principals associated with locating fish elsewhere in the backcountry. During cold days look to the lee side of shorelines where the water temperature will be slightly warmer than in the more exposed expanses. Regardless where in Whitewater Bay you may be the presence of bait will be a great indicator that predators may be near by. Take a close look at how the bait is behaving. If you see mullet languidly swimming and free jumping, the odds are nobody is hot on their tails. However, if the bait is acting nervous, or better yet, being busted from below, hungry fish are obviously present.

Wading birds perched along the edge of a shoreline are also good indicators of a specific area’s productivity. Obvious signs of a fish’s presence are the unmistakable roll of a tarpon, the exposed fin of a tailing redfish, or the pop of a snook ambushing an unsuspecting baitfish. Cruising sharks and rays will be foraging in the same areas as the other, more prized species, so their presence may indicate your target is nearby.

In the remoteness of Whitewater Bay, to achieve success you need to be both a fisherman and a hunter. Do not be content to fish just anywhere - seek out opportunities using both your sense and your intuition. Be aggressive in your search and don’t stop until you find what you’re looking for.

Anglers should note the northern reaches of Whitewater Bay are subject to high tidal variation. The water in the upper portions of the bay moves swiftly through the narrow rivers, creeks, and passes as it enters and exits the Gulf. It’s a good idea to work the points here, especially if there are fallen mangroves or exposed oyster bars noticeable. An angler would do well by remembering that shallow water fish are inherently lethargic during the coolest months of the year and are almost always looking for an easy meal to come to them. Look for distinct breaks in the current, such as eddies that form away from the swift moving water. That’s where the fish will most likely be staged.

Along these same rivers that feed Whitewater Bay are mazes of feeder creeks that drain during the falling tides. Snook and redfish stack up in the mouths of these creeks waiting for baitfish and crustaceans to be swept their way. Up in the northern reaches of the bay, fishing live bait is more conducive to finding what you’re looking for. Both shrimp and pilchards bounced along the bottom are very effective. Gag grouper, mangrove snapper, and juvenile goliath also fall victim to this tactic, but we all know anything that swims in the ‘Glades will succumb to a live bait.

For the purist, the use of artificial lures and flies really shines the brightest in the lower portions of Whitewater. When the strong west winds that accompany the passage of a cold front muddy the Gulf, the tide invariably carries the dirty water into Whitewater. The northern reaches are first to receive this infusion of muddy water. During these situations, angling opportunities with artificials’ should be sought in the interior of the bay.

Sight-fishing enthusiasts will find Whitewater a shallow water angler’s paradise. The entire span conceals mud flats, oyster bars, and sloping shorelines where one can pick off cruising targets. While the water in Whitewater lacks the clarity found in the Keys and the ultra-shallow plateaus found in Florida Bay, there are more than several areas where productive stretches of no more than a foot deep can be found. Oyster Bay to the north and Mud Bay on the east side of Whitewater are two favorites. In both areas redfish will be the primary target, but it is always possible to find snook and laid up tarpon occupying the same stretch.

The endless small pools between Roberts River and the Watson River entrance are also conducive to sight-fishing. Here, current will help determine whether or not your time will be well spent. While many of the small creeks that feed the pools are fairly deep, these back bays are much shallower. Look not only for fish but for signs of life including bait, sharks and/or stingrays.

In the heart of Whitewater Bay visiting anglers will find countless passes meandering their way between the islands. Here, the moving current is accelerated, sweeping baitfish right into the waiting mouths of hungry predators. Casting a jig or drifting bait will yield all of the different species found in Whitewater. Glamorous snook and redfish are especially known to take up residency in these passes throughout most of the year, with the exception of the summer months. Tarpon, jacks, ladyfish, and sheepshead will cruise these same passages and may surprise you at any time.

To experience the full potential of Whitewater Bay and to gain access to its innermost reaches, paddling by canoe or kayak is necessary. Because Whitewater Bay is so distant from any point of entry, those planning to paddle their way to adventure should plan on multi-day trips. Florida’s parks and recreation dept. maintains Chickees for overnight use (fixed platforms elevated over the water equipped with portable restroom facilities). There’s plenty of room on the Chickees for overnight travelers to pitch a tent and go about conducting the business of backcountry living. If you intend to spend the night, a permit must be purchased and the Chickee reserved in advance with priority given to those paddling. Granted this is no Hilton, I assure you it’s an adventure that will leave you with memories that will last a lifetime.

Similar to any backcountry excursion, special consideration must be given to equipment selection. If something is forgotten, you simply can’t run to the local convenience store to get it. Tents should be light and have good ventilation. Sleeping bags need not be rated for sub-arctic conditions as even wintertime temperatures rarely drop below 50 degrees in the ‘Glades.

As for cooking equipment, a Coleman stove, although bulky, is good. Keep cooking utensils sparse and simple. Take a lesson from backpackers and use the maxim that less is more. Food must be non-perishable. Plan for breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day you are out in the wild, plus an extra snack for every now and then. Always bring extra food in case of worst case scenarios. Hopefully, dinners will be supplemented with fresh fish.

Clothing, too, should be kept to a minimum. It is advisable to bring one pair of fishing type pants where the legs can be unzipped to shorts. A fleece-type jacket and pants is needed if a cold front passes or to wear during the night. Rain gear, while hopefully not necessary, is another must. A few pairs of underwear and a pair of wool socks will round out your wardrobe.

Flash lights, extra batteries, and navigational aids are also necessary. Sunscreen and bug repellant of sufficient strength are essentials as are head-nets if insects should become a nuisance. A first-aid kit is also a necessity as is soap, and while biodegradable camping soap is preferable, any soap will do.

Lastly, everything must be secured in waterproof bags to prevent water from ruining your trip. Cameras and other fragile equipment should be stored in Ziplock bags. Remember to take extra bags to haul out all of your trash.

When venturing into Whitewater Bay, carry along the tackle you would normally bring on any backcountry trip with double of everything if you plan on staying for an extended period of time. The variety of angling opportunities here offers both light tackle and fly-fishermen limitless possibilities with a whole array of shallow water species.

Complimenting the areas diverse fishery, Whitewater’s remote back bays and winding creeks are set against the most aesthetically sublime surroundings in the entire state. I believe the bay could very well be Florida’s last remaining jewel, a secluded wilderness where anglers have the opportunity to pit their skills against wild and aggressive fish on their own turf.

Everglades National Park Information Page
Everything you wanted to know about Everglades National Park
www.Everglades.National-Park.com