|
With conservation minded anglers accomplishing fantastic angling feats,
fiberglass fish reproductions continue to increase in popularity.
Here is everything you need to know so you, too, can preserve your treasured memory.
Fish taxidermy has come a long way since the days of stuffing fish skins with wood shavings or paper. Gone from most studios are slime removers, degreasers, formaldehyde, tanning solutions, sewing kits, and surgical equipment. Heck, today’s best craftsmen don’t even need the fish anymore.
Nowadays, fiberglass reproductions, known as release mounts (as opposed to actual skin mounts) account for over 90 percent of all saltwater fish trophies, says Joe Ribera, owner of Ft. Lauderdale based Atlantic Taxidermy.
In fact, his facility bills itself as “Quality Taxidermy through Catch-&-Release Conservation.”
Ribera entered the profession in its infancy, serving as general manager and head marine artist for J.T. Reese, while he worked closely with marine artist Carey Chen. He says the release mount trend began in the 1970s, when advances in fiberglass technology, spearheaded by Pflueger and J.T. Reese, coincided with environmentalism which has led to today’s preference for catch-&-release.
Another industry veteran, Raymond Douglas of Pompano Beach’s King Sailfish Mounts, remembers, “I didn't like the sight of countless dead sailfish lying around on the docks, so I decided to see if there really was a market for fiberglass release mounts which do not require killing the actual fish. More than a dozen years later, we’re glad to say that an increasing number of conscientious anglers are continuing to commemorate their accomplishments with release mounts.”
Grease is the word…
“The problem associated with yesteryear’s skin mounts was removing the natural fish oil, which is costly and difficult. In some species, it’s nearly impossible to completely remove all of the grease, and the resulting skin mount could rapidly deteriorate. Any remaining grease will eventually ooze to the surface, showing up as yellow patches around the cheeks and the belly,” says Ribera.
The word “taxidermy” is derived from the Greek phrase for “movement of skin.” That’s another problem with a skin mount, Ribera added. Unlike a tough elk or boar, even the mightiest game fish are fragile. When you move the skin of a barracuda, for instance, you’re likely to lose scales. And when attempting a repair, you face the difficult task of matching Mother Nature’s skin configurations and patterns.”
Also on the positive side of fiberglass replicas is their virtual indestructibility, says John Stark, owner of John Stark Fish Mounts. While traditional skin mounts are susceptible to heat, humidity, and sunlight, fiberglass is sturdy enough to be hung outside in even the most extreme tropical environments (although no UV resistant paint is completely immune to long-term direct sunlight). “Fiberglass replicas are regularly hung outdoors in the Florida Keys and throughout all of South Florida. All they need to retain their luster and stay looking like new is to be waxed once a year like a car,” says Stark.
Natural Skin Mount –vs- Fiberglass Release Mount
For the sake of this story, we’ll use a typical Atlantic sailfish as an example.
As you’re about to find out, there are many ways to help your favorite marine taxidermist bring your billfish back to life. To care for a catch intended for a skin mount, it’s important to get your prize to the studio ASAP and in pristine condition. Always have a camera in a waterproof case. You should have a notepad and pencil to record exact measurements, plenty of towels, freezer wrap or clean plastic bags, freezer tape, a small pocket knife or scalpel, and, of course, a large ice-filled cooler or freezer in which to transport your trophy.
Avoid handling the fish, and don’t clean it. Plug the mouth with cotton or tissue, wrap the entire fish in wet towels and place it in the cooler or freezer. Some taxidermists suggest preserving the specimen with borax, but that’s up to you. Bring with you all applicable tags, permits, and licenses. Keep in mind, you’ll never see the fish again. This all sounds easy, right?
A conservation minded angler on the other hand, needs only to supply the taxidermist with some brief, yet specific information.
“Be prepared to safely and quickly record the information needed to produce your fiberglass replica,” Douglas said. “Then, carefully release your catch unharmed. Knowing what to do in advance is critical to the fish’s survival.”
Exact measurements are important, and how you measure depends on the particular fish. For instance, a sailfish needs to be measured from the tip of the bill to the tip of the tail. Species such as dolphin and tarpon are measured from the tip of the nose to the tip of the tail. One of the most common mistakes is inaccurate measurements, Ribera added. “Most anglers aren’t equipped with a long-enough tape measure.”
The solution is easy: use a length of fishing line and run it along the entire length of the fish, and mark it. Another idea says Raymond Douglas, is to mark off measurements on the side of the boat with a pencil, or use the corner of the transom to mark the tip of the tail, then use a reference point, such as the second rod holder, to mark the tip of the bill. The exact distance can be measured later.
Stark says the angler must be practical. “If you’ve got a seven foot long billfish, you don’t have to be exact. An inch or two won’t make much difference.” Stark also warns against holding any fish vertically, even by the tail, to take measurements or photos. Fragile internal organs are pressed against each other and this could damage finlets and break bones. Facts that Stark requests include where the fish was caught, the estimated weight, girth, and other pertinent details, such as the number of spots on a redfish’s tail.
“I use lots of photos,” says Ribera. “The coloring, spots, and patterns can be subtle and must be matched to the photographs of that particular fish.”
Other taxidermists rely on other methods to achieve verisimilitude.
“Pictures are not mandatory,” says Stark. “Not all anglers are great photographers. The light could be dim, the sun might be shining into the camera, and you need the correct lens to really capture the iridescence. I weigh heavily on experience and knowledge of the species.”
The Fiberglass Fish Reproduction Process…
Molding and reproducing fiberglass game fish is expensive, but one mold can spawn many authentic trophies, if the craftsmen are artful. A single mold can yield thousands of casts, says Douglas. “Molds are produced for each size and species in relatively short increments. For example, our sailfish models are in one- or two-inch increments: 76-, 78-, 79-, 80-inches.
If no mold is readily available, for, say, a potential world-record catch, a mold will be created from the fish itself.
To produce the finest finishes, today’s top reproduction artists choose the best grade of lacquers, pearls, iridescent, and clear. Rather than spraying a premixed color, they blend the colors right on the fish itself, layering the application. This way different colors diffuse from various angles, and the mount looks very much alive.
“Taxidermists know their colors and paint trophies to the region in which the fish was caught,” says John Stark. “Redfish are different in Texas, Louisiana, Florida, and North Carolina. Though the variations are subtle, they are nonetheless important.”
Another factor is water temperature, according to Bolivar, Missouri based Great Fish Reproduction’s Gary Fisher. “Fish coloration changes from deep, cooler water to shallow, warmer water, and can even change in different portions of one particular body of water, depending on water clarity. Our artists paint the fish as it appears in the water. For instance, dolphin are brilliant in the water, but once exposed to air, their colors quickly fade. To capture the fish’s true essence we use iridescent paints and clear coat to seal in the colors and add a brilliant shine.”
“The most impressive part of any release mount process is the painting,” says Mark Sosin, marine journalist. “Often, taxidermists will spend hours painting a single fish. All that information and the subtle colors are in the artist’s head who are specialists at portraying tiny tinges of shades you never recognized before. That attention to detail is what makes each fiberglass reproduction look so lifelike.”
Details also make a difference. Teeth are cast using dental acrylics from rubber molds that come from real fish teeth. Eyes are made of glass with fired-enamel colors, while fins are reproduced from synthetic materials
How to land a taxidermist…
If you caught your prize on a charter and need a recommendation for a taxidermist, be aware that most charter boat crews have arrangements with a particular shop. “The crew earns a commission, so don’t be pressured to patronize an establishment you don’t know anything about. DO NOT be led to believe the fish must be killed for a replica to be reproduced. They don’t call them release mounts for nothing,” says the National Taxidermists Association’s Greg Crain.
How much you pay for your replica depends on the grade. Rates can range from $10-$15 per inch. The more expensive, competitive grade fish reproductions have more detail. The final product is not just similar, but matches the photograph and the measurements you provided exactly.
One of the best ways to find a reliable shop is to ask around. Most taxidermists get most of their business by word-of-mouth. Another good way is to consult the National Association of Taxidermists in Slidell, LA. Phone or e-mail NTA Headquarters for a reference of NTA Certified Taxidermists or NTA Award of Excellence recipients. Call 985.641.4682 or e-mail ntahq@aol.com. Note that on www.NationalTaxidermists.com, there is a link to a taxidermist relief fund to assist professionals who were affected by the hurricanes.
What to look for in a reproduction: Is it a work of art, or a tacky looking stiff?
Gary Fisher says the first impression is most important. No particular detail should stand out; they should all blend together for an eye-catching experience.
“The eyes are a dead giveaway,” he says. “The eyes should be bright and clear and be mounted on both sides of the fish. How they’re set is also very important. You don’t want a cross-eyed fish.”
The specimen should be positioned to look like it could swim away, not like a stiff carcass. “I’ve seen pectoral and pelvic fins mounted in ways where it would be impossible for the fish to swim” says Fisher.
Unlike a pretty face, the fish’s skin should not be smooth. You should almost be able to count the scales, and even see details in them. Gills should appear vibrant and full of color, as if the fish were still breathing.
If all of these criteria are met, a proud craftsman can look forward to letters of recommendation such as Atlantic Taxidermy’s Ribera received from Tom Quinn, an IGFA Certified Observer. “What a great job you did for my head-mount swordfish! It looks better on my wall than it did the moment it was caught. The colors are vivid and lifelike, and the eyes are better than you promised. It is a beautiful and very powerful presentation.”
Some of the most memorable fish mounts are usually large, difficult, or unusual. John Stark remembers being confronted with a 600 pound Queensland grouper which he transformed into a 150 pound fiberglass replica, and a 2200 pound, 16-foot great white shark that reappeared as a giant fiberglass monster.
“Our rarest mount was of a coelacanth,” says Douglas, “a species once thought to be extinct. We also produced a replica of Alfred Glassell’s World Record Black Marlin (1,560 lbs.). Both are currently on display at the International Game Fish Association in Ft. Lauderdale.
Treat yourself or your best friend to one of the greatest gifts any angler can receive. Release your fish unharmed, and then invest in a fiberglass reproduction. The trophy will last a lifetime and so will the memories.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We can fix anything!
Post hurricanes, most damage to trophy fish mounts was due to being knocked off walls, resulting in broken fins, chipped tails, and scratched paint. “Anything can be repaired,” says Bucky Flowers of Naples, Florida Skin & Scales Taxidermy. “We put it all back together, apply epoxy, repaint the mount, and it looks brand new.”
Outside of storm damage to fiberglass mounts, there are other repairs that need to be addressed in reference to old skin mounts. In addition to the grease issue we mentioned earlier, skin can separate from the filling, and seams can crack and become visible.
Ribera recently repaired a sailfish that was skin-mounted in 1959. The man who caught the fish had recently past away, and his daughter was anxious to preserve the trophy as a memento. “The skin was lifting due to the humidity, it was cracked, and all the blue coloration was gone. We were able to glue it, fill it, and repaint it to like new condition. She was thrilled”
------------------------------------
King Sailfish Mounts
954.784.8377
www.KingSailfish.com
John Stark’s Fish Mounts
210.684.2577
www.JohnStarkFishMounts.com
Great Fish Reproductions
866.424.7834
www.4GreatFish.com
Atlantic Taxidermy
866.446.6868
www.AtlanticTaxidermy.com
|
