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This road leads to paradise.. Island hopping the Florida Keys.

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Written by Capt. George Clarke, Jr.   

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Could there be any better way to spend a few days?

Are you searching for an escape, a secluded destination far away from the hustle and bustle of every day city life? A place where the water is clear and the fish practically jump in the boat? A place where the wind is light and the sunsets display only the deepest shades of orange and purple, a place where it seldom rains and the water temperature is a constant 80 degrees?


Are you looking for a vacation destination where the offshore waters are rich with game fish and the shallows boil with plant and marine life? How about a destination where theres a goblet of spiced rum and cuisine fit for royalty. A place where you, the king, and your queen can watch the subjects dance and frolic in the warm evening air whilst the moon shimmers on the waters edge just a few steps away? Are you wondering where this secret place is hidden? Are you wondering how to get there? All right, Ill share this little secret with you. Its the Florida Keys, and if you live anywhere in south Florida, theyre no more than an afternoons drive away.

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The Florida Keys are 114 miles of narrow barrier islands connected by a series of bridges that carry millions of visitors to and from paradise every year. For easy reference, this lanky porous sponge we conchs call home is broken up into three sections. They are referred to as the Upper, Middle, and Lower Keys. The Upper Keys are considered to be Key Largo, Tavernier, Plantation Key, Islamorada, and upper and lower Matecumbe Keys. The Middle Keys stretch further south to Big Pine Key, Bahia Honda and Marathon; while the more remote Lower Keys consist of places known by the likes of Cudjoe and Sugar Loaf Key, and of course, Key West.

First is Key Largo. Sandwiched between the Everglades National Park to the west, Biscayne National Park to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the east, Key Largo is best known for its fishing and diving. During the fall months, Key Largo is frequently visited by fish heads (fishermen) and bubble blowers (divers and snorklers) alike.

One of the more upscale destinations in the Keys, Largo is home to several resorts that accommodate a considerable portion of the Florida Keys busy tourist trade. The Sheraton Beach Resort and Marriott Bay Beach Resort are two of the largest, offering hundreds of lavishly appointed guest rooms, bay and poolside dining and gorgeous private beaches to relax and unwind. Other smaller hotels and bed and breakfasts are equally unique and close to great restaurants and shopping as well as popular tourist attractions such as John Pennekamp Park and the Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary.

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South of Key Largo, visitors will find Islamorada. A bit quieter than Key Largo, Islamorada symbolizes the Keys 20 years ago. Greats like the Splendid Splinter, hall of fame baseball star Ted Williams, first drew attention to this world class fishing destination in the early 1960s. Since, the attraction of sport fishing in Islamorada for bonefish and tarpon has continued to grow every year; while offshore, sailfish and dolphin fishing attracts blue water fishing enthusiasts from around the globe during all seasons. The local attitude is eat, drink and fish, and at the world famous Tiki Bar at Holiday Isle, thats just what visitors and locals do.

For the best eats on the island, check out Bentleys, Uncles, and City Hall and of course Mangrove Mikes. If youre entertaining children, remember Dolphins Plus in Key Largo and Theatre of the Sea will have the kids smiling from ear to ear. Another family activity enjoyed by everyone is hand feeding 150 pound tarpon on the docks at world famous Robbies Marina. Although its tempting, keep in mind, no rods allowed. Youll have to charter a guide for that. Other things to do while in Islamorada are eco-tours, sightseeing, snorkeling or maybe even parasailing. To be sure, theres plenty to do and even a visit just to the upper Keys will keep you busy for at least a week.

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As I mentioned, the Keys are all connected by bridges, and if youre the kind of person who carries a fishing rod in your golf bag, then these bridges will certainly help you occupy some time during youre visit. Snook and tarpon hang around the bridges and cuts almost year round, as do several species of snapper and even the occasional grouper.

For anglers seeking offshore adventure in the Upper Keys, Key Largo Fisheries on Lake Largo, is home to the charter boat Rodeo Charters and the Gulf Stream full day party boat. Here, even if you have a bad day youll never come home empty handed because you can always walk inside and buy some fresh fish to take home for dinner. Finally, Holiday Isle and Bud-n-Marys Marina are more than happy to accommodate your needs with a variety of charter vessels of all sizes.

Now slide your finger south on the map past Lower Matecumbe and youll see Hawks Cay resort on Duck Key. With 295 private villas and a 177 room Caribbean-style inn, Hawks Cay is a 60 acre island resort suited to even the most discerning destination angler.

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Located nearby, Bahia Honda State Park offers some of the most breathtaking views found anywhere in the Florida Keys. Voted Most beautiful beach in the continental United States by Conde Nast Traveler in 1992, the pristine waters of the Park are ideal for snorkeling, diving, kayaking, shelling, and most of all, fishing. Tarpon fishing in the Bahia Honda area ranks among the best in the State. With dozens of notable catches every season. Any angler planning a visit to the Park would be remiss in not packing his fly rod or scheduling a morning trip with a professional guide who specializes in fishing the area. If fishing isnt on your list of things to do while visiting the Park, guided eco-tours of this family oriented destination are also available to anyone interested in learning more about the cultural and natural history of the Florida Keys.

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If your heart is simply set on a leisurely drive through a tropical paradise, the Keys will fulfill just that. But, dont be in a hurry. Much of your drive here takes place on a two lane road, the only way in and out of the Keys by car. Standard rush hour traffic is to be expected. So travel during the midday hours and make your visit a pleasant one.

Equally as well known as a top fishing destination, the Middle Keys have a few interesting characteristics that set them apart. Just off Marathon, deep water humps provide suitable structure for world-class tuna, dolphin, wahoo, billfish and shark fishing. Oh, and by the way, if youre into deep dropping to target prized bottom dwellers, the Middle Keys are the place to go. Inshore of these unique underwater fish havens, the reef contour continues southwest toward the southern tip of the Keys as Sombrero Light aids vessels in evening transit.

Here in the Middle Keys, bridges and mangrove edges are often the only barriers separating the Gulf and Atlantic waters. As you venture north or south, you can see shallow flats being worked by fisherman sight casting to bonefish, tarpon or permit. Its quite a silhouette a flats boat with two anglers working together, one on the rear platform manning the push pole while the other balances and makes his presentation from the casting deck on the bow. Couple this with the colorful melting backdrop of a sunrise or sunset on a crisp fall evening and youll see what drives so many people nuts about coming here!

If youre in Marathon heading south and you hear your stomach starting to rumble, make sure to stop off and grab some lunch at The Island, Porkys, or The Quay. All are excellent lunch spots with great Keys-style atmospheres. Or, if youre shopping for tackle and a little fishing advice, make sure you stop in and visit Big Time Bait and Tackle. Jack and Biff will be happy to set you up and point you in the right direction.

Once you leave Marathon on your way south, youll cross the Seven-Mile Bridge. This landmark structure has long served its purpose not only for ushering in trains and automobiles, but has also provided some pretty darn good fishing for boatless anglers. Even Arnold Swartzenegger enjoyed taking in the sights form the bridge while filming the box office hit True Lies with co-star Jamie Lee Curtis.

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Lets hop south one last time to historical Key West. We all know every kid loves the carnival, or should I say the circus, and anyone whos been to Key West knows that, on any given day, Key West can be very much like a circus. Every night, street performers including jugglers and magicians, compete for a few dollars or an occasional bottle of beer in Key Wests Mallory Square. These unusual performances shock and bewilder spectators who gather round to witness these strange and bizarre shows under the moonlit skies of the southernmost point in the United States.

Like the Upper and Middle Keys, Key West also has great eateries and pubs to spend an afternoon or evening imbibing the sights and sounds of this one-of-a-kind tourist destination. Fresh seafood and cold brew are the staples of the Key West diet and Sloppy Joes and the Hogs Breath Saloon are the places to see and be seen when visiting historic Key West. Other places to try are the Half Shell Raw Bar and Schooner Wharf Bar for a few out of the ordinary yet tasty surprises. Looking for a roof over your head, perhaps a quaint bed and breakfast or cozy cottage? Well, Key West is hardly a sleepy little town and finding accommodations on a last minute basis can be difficult to say the least. Its definitely best to call ahead when planning a trip to just about anywhere in the Florida Keys, especially Key West.

If youre looking for a sure thing, The Banyan Resort is old Key West for sure. Other places like Chelsea House Pool and Gardens provide visitors to Americas island paradise with that special Caribbean ambiance.

For serious fishheads, check out Oceanside marina or Garrison Bight Marina and book a charter with one of Key Wests many excellent fishing guides. Whether you prefer inshore or offshore fishing, Key West has something to please everyone who comes to the area to fish.

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Looking for a few more extracurricular activities, visit the Pirate Museum and learn the etiquette of swashbuckling and plundering, or stroll through Ernest Hemmingways house. Maybe grab a bar of gold at Mel Fishers Treasure Museum or take a seaplane ride to historic Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas.

The whole idea of the Keys is to come as you are and do what makes you happy. Pick and choose what you like to do and do it. Im sure the Florida Keys will become that special place youll visit year after year. Oh and one last thing, If youre here in late October be sure to participate in Key Wests annual Fantasy Fest. If you dont know, just go. If youre a regular, nothing else needs to be said.

See ya in the Keys!


 
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