AS SEEN IN THE SEPT/OCT 2006 ISSUE

Stickbaits, jerkbaits, crankbaits, swimming baits- whatever you prefer to call them- plugs have played a major role in most angler’s success since the beginning of fishing. I am not sure if there is a single species out there that hasn’t at one time or another fallen victim to a plug. Today though, saltwater fanatics are faced with more choices then ever before when determining which particular plugs to purchase.

There are literally thousands of swimming baits on the market, from countless different manufacturers, all available in just about every size, shape, and color imaginable. To make the wisest choice, fishermen need to be armed with a little bit of plug know-how.

Skin deep:

Wood or balsa was the earliest material of primitive swimming plugs. Wooden lures were hand painted and most floated. Only very heavy wooden plugs with the addition of large amounts of weight would sink. Although these beasts did cast extremely well, they were bulky and were a far cry from the ideal choice today. In reality, wooden plugs are hard to come by any longer. The lures that once required hours to carve and shape have since been reduced to construction in mere seconds by machines with specific functions which create consistent designs.

Polyurethane or Poly-Balsa plugs came into the picture next and were introduced to the sport fishing community more than a decade ago. These lures could also be hand painted or given a solid mold-over. Polyurethane is a very porous material, which requires a great deal of preparation and extra coatings of paint for a lustrous finish. Typically, poly-balsa plugs were heavy because of the density of the material, which also explains why most poly-balsa plugs are of the sinking variety. On the plus side, poly-balsa plugs are extremely durable, and able to take plenty of abuse from the powerful jaws of even the most relentless predators.

Today, the most common material in lure construction is plastic. Plastic is readily available, extremely affordable, durable, and can be molded into any shape or size. Plastic lures are designed to float, suspend, or sink. Quite possibly, plastic is the ultimate lure manufacturing material.

Recently, lure manufacturers have stepped away from the ordinary and have begun experimenting with new materials such as cork. Cork lures are either carved from cork for high floating top-water stickbaits or cork encased in soft plastic to allow for a realistic feel. The latter combination produces a plug that suspends. Another innovative addition to the market is plugs manufactured out of completely new materials that are both extremely durable, yet pliable enough to bend back and forth. Yo-Zuri’s Livebait Series are a perfect example. Company representatives were hesitant to divulge all their secrets on this new material, but this series of baits has an original action and amazing longevity under the harshest of conditions.

Next, are the half hard plastic/half soft rubber plugs many anglers now call swim baits. These lures were invented about ten years ago and have evolved through a wide variety of changes. Their advantages are a softer more realistic feel, and in some cases, much wilder action. However, the loss of the soft plastic tail portion to a toothy critter renders the plug useless. This can drive an angler to a new level of frustration.

It’s what’s on the inside that matters most: Along with innovative exteriors, for artificial lures to produce the irresistible life-like action fishermen demand, tackle manufacturers have implemented various inner-body mechanisms. Weight transfer systems are inner tracks that allow a large metallic ball to roll freely within the plug. When the lure is cast, the ball rolls to the tail end of the bait, providing the lure with extra momentum for extended castability. When the bait hits the water, the ball rolls forward, and slips into a small chamber where it sits until the next cast. To expand on this option even further, lure manufacturers have affixed a magnet in one end of the lure to more quickly move the ball to the correct area for casting.

It’s also common to see plugs with multiple chambers for various functions besides the purpose of increased casting distance. A rattle chamber, for example, where numerous glass beads and/or ball bearings may be encased provides the bait with an inviting rattling sound. This ‘noise’ helps inshore game fish find the lure in stained water and often triggers reaction strikes. Internal chambers are also common in plugs solely for the purpose of adding additional weight to either sink a lure or help it suspend.

Body language says it all. Plugs come in many different shapes and sizes, so which one is the right one? The old adage of “Big baits catch big fish!” comes to mind, but this isn’t always true. A big fish will often chase down and smash an exceptionally large plug, but all experienced anglers know that given the right circumstances, just about every species regardless of size will attempt to devour jumbo size offerings nearly as large as they are. Size of lure is more of a relative term and as a rule should primarily match the size of the prevalent forage in the area, rather than being dictated by the size of the fish being targeted. While you may think that a six- to eight-inch plug would be perfect for a big hungry tarpon in the fall, if the prevalent bait in the area you’re fishing is small finger mullet, I would put my money on a three-inch plug. This size prey is what the game fish are feeding on and what they are likely to strike without hesitation.

The body style of a plug has a variety of functions and plays an equal role in an artificial swimming bait’s overall appeal. A lure may need to be larger in girth to accommodate the extensive inner workings that were mentioned above. A larger body also has more water displacement which our targeted species’ lateral lines may find easier to recognize. Large, broad bodied plugs can be very effective when fishing stained water, where game fish may have a difficult time honing in on small prey items. Big lures ring the dinner bell with authority and help hungry fish zero-in on the source.

Plugs may also need to be large because of the size of the lure’s cranking lip. Ever notice how deep-diving plugs always feature broad bodies that are unusually large? You can’t find a deep-diver that swims below fifteen feet with a small body. This is because the size of the lure must be balanced with the size of the lip. The two components must be proportionate in order for the lure to dive and swim properly.

An angler might also want to pay special attention to thin-profile plugs. Thin stickbaits will have less water resistance based on the overall surface area of the lure. This makes it a good choice for slow cranking nighttime fishing. Also pay close attention to today’s lipless crankbaits. Their body design is based on a flat concave head with broad sides. This unique shape forces water directly against the lure and causes it to rapidly wiggle back and forth, sending off massive vibrations that invite interested parties from great distances.

Pretty in pink: Color pattern is a very important aspect in any artificial type of bait, and the same holds true for swimming plugs. Reason number one goes back to the match-the-hatch theory. If menhaden (aka pogies) are on the menu, anglers may want to choose a gold-hued plug. When mullet are prevalent, silver and black would be a better option. This theory definitely holds true in clear water where visibility is a big factor. Now, if the water is stained, a brightly-colored lure- such as chartreuse, or hot pink- would be a good fit, although to confuse things even further, bright colors have also proven their effectiveness in clear water. On occasion, fish see bright lures from greater distances and might be drawn in for a closer look.

On the flip side, in dark, coffee-colored water, dark plugs are often the easiest to see. Remember though, fish don’t see things the same way we do. If you look into stained water, what color normally stands out? Submerged branches and dark grass can often be spotted before anything else. Not hot pink or fuscia; rather dark hues such as brown, black, or dark green stand out. Another train of thought says that when fish are irritable and hesitant to strike, even in the murkiest of water, an eccentric color pattern like watermelon or electric chicken might just trigger an instinct and make the fish say, “What in the world is that? It’s so odd looking, I think I’ll kill it!”

Light penetration through the water is a key factor in this constant plotting to capture dinner. During overcast days or when fishing at night, contrary to what common sense might be telling you, successful anglers must have faith in dark lures. As night falls, colors are nowhere near as vibrant. In order to see anything, there must be a natural or artificial light source. If you haven’t already done this, try this simple experiment. Walk outside at night and look toward the horizon. What do you see? Nothing but dark silhouettes, that’s what. Not green, yellow, orange, pink, red or even white. Everything appears dark. When nocturnal fish hunt under the cover of darkness, they look up against a moonlit sky. A dark silhouette is all they see when a prey item wanders their way. Go ahead and take a white plug and hold it to the moon. The object can be seen, but not very clearly. Now do the same with a black plug. Note how much better the lure stands out.

Floating, suspending, or sinking, effective plugs come in all varieties: The vast majority of swimming plugs are made to float; this is for a variety of reasons. Floating plugs are less likely to snag. Floating plugs are designed to run with a consistent diving depth just below the surface leaving an enticing wake in their trail. Most game fish prefer to attack prey from below. This strategy provides them with more of an element of surprise. If fish attacked from above, their silhouette would warn baitfish and crustaceans of the impending death coming their way. Nature has designed most predatory gamefish with dark backs and eyes positioned on the top of their heads to look up at prey. Plus, the majority of inshore game fish relate to structure, and are able to find plenty of hiding spaces along the bottom portions of the water column than out in the open on top.

Suspending lures swim below the surface and allow an angler to keep the lure at a regulated depth, hopefully, right on the nose of gamefish that are reluctant to hit close to the surface. A suspending plug is often a jerkbait as well. This is a lure that is jerked quickly with the rod tip and then allowed to pause. This keeps the lure in the strike zone longer and provides the impression of a wounded baitfish, which swims erratically. It is easy prey for hungry fish.

Next is a sinking plug, designed to swim deep in the water column. A number of sinking plugs can actually be “counted” to the right depth. Every second the lure sinks, equals one foot of depth. This allows an angler to consistently present an offering at a precise depth. A sinking lure is extremely beneficial in chasing bottom-dwelling species that prefer to hunt on the water's floor. An example is the delicious summer flounder. They live and hunt directly on the bottom, so a sinking plug retrieved just inches off the bottom will more likely get attacked.

It’s all in the lip: The most recognizable feature of just about any stickbait is the size and shape of the lip. Typically, the longer the lip, the deeper the lure will dive. This also relates to where the eyelet is placed. An eyelet at the face of the lure will cause a lure to dive deeper than an eyelet further down the lip. This is due to water pressure against the lip and the angle of pull. A number of innovative lip designs also feature small rings where additional weight can be added to achieve a greater level of depth.

Narrow lips provide a lure tighter action with a tighter wobble. This makes it easier for a fish to focus on, and is more effective in colder water when fish aren’t as active. Most narrow lipped plugs are fine-tuned for enticing action right out of the box, and it takes a major beating for the lure to become unbalanced. Wide lips cause a lure to roll from side to side with a wider, exaggerated wobble. This is great for aggressive fish and for bouncing off structure. As the lip hits an obstruction, it will typically “bounce” to the side because of the wide, wild action. All this again relates to the surface area and water pressure against the lip. A lip that slowly rounds off as opposed to a sharp point will also provide a more erratic action. A lip that is shaved in will cause an artificial bait to run straight and true. This type of lip is meant for slow retrieves. Too fast a retrieve will cause too much water flow for the lip to handle, and could potentially kick the lure out of whack.

The angle of the lip is also a feature to recognize. A lip with a very sharp angle will cause the lure to quickly dive to the desired depth. A lip with less of an angle will cause the bait to run at medium depths and reach those depths at less of an angle. Some lures have a lip that just points straight down from the head of the lure at a 90 degree angle. This is ideal for shallow water fishing. This is often the design of "wake baits" which produce an action that causes a wake on the surface of the water.

Finally, before purchasing a new plug or more importantly, before throwing a plug in any environment, take a minute to consider how, where, and when you intend to use the plug. Consider your surroundings, consider the prevalent forage in the area, and of course consider the characteristics of your intended quarry. By evaluating these factors, along with being familiar with swimming plug design and proper implementation, you, too, will make educated decisions that will greatly increase your odds of success.

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