A Corrosive Combination!
Are you taking evasive action to protect your big-game tackle against the harsh effects of salt and grime? If not, you’re asking for trouble!
Due to the extremely corrosive properties of abrasive sand crystals and grimy saltwater, the ocean is one of the harshest environments on the planet. It’s often said that there is only one thing that saltwater’s acidic tendencies won’t corrode – saltwater.
On top of this, if you are fortunate, you expose your big-game equipment to extreme tests against the toughest adversaries. If everything isn’t in perfect working order, the weakest link in your tackle system will undoubtedly be exploited and an encounter with a trophy billfish, tuna or shark will likely be over before it even gets underway.
Growing up in New England, fishing has always been my number one pastime. However, it wasn’t until I traded in my commercial fishing career to recreationally sport fish the bountiful Pacific Ocean that I realized just how passionate I really am about this sport. From Hawaii to Tahiti, I have put a number of clients in the record books, racking up impressive numbers year after year including 138 tagged blue marlin during one unforgettable season off Vanuatu. Now in Destin, Florida, I find myself enjoying the challenges that come with competing in prestigious blue marlin tournaments against angling’s elite. As far as I am concerned, if it doesn’t have a bill – it is just bait!
Big-game fishing competitively, we all know that the investment in our equipment and terminal-tackle can be enormous, which is why it truly pays to take good care of and routinely maintain our tools of the trade. We have to do everything in our power to combat the harsh effects of sun, sand and sea, to ensure the best performance and longest life out of every piece of tackle we own, as well as arming the lucky angler in the fighting chair with the fairest odds possible. What all of this boils down to is that investing a few minutes after each trip in preventive maintenance pays big dividends over the long run with a fine-tuned arsenal of tackle and many seasons of trouble-free service.
Monofilament
Monofilament isn’t cheap! Though quite durable for its relatively thin diameter, monofilament fishing line is nylon and is weakened by long-term exposure to the sun and salt. Consider for a moment that the smallest nick or slightest chaff could spell disaster when the money is on the line. IGFA certified monofilament is all that I fish. I am a believer that nearly all top-shelf mono is good stuff, which is one reason that I am not brand specific. Everyday you are on the water, a realistic possibility exists of catching a local-record, maybe even a world-record in the bountiful deep blue; you simply never know when that fish of a lifetime is going to explode on your Breakfast. For this reason alone IGFA rated line is worth the investment.
Many big-game gurus spool with braid backing and top-off with a few hundred yards of mono. Not a bad idea considering the backing lasts nearly indefinitely because it rarely sees the sun or sea. If this sounds like you, be sure that your braid backing is line tested and matches your top-shot because according to IGFA rules, the heavier of the two is what the potential record will be based on.
In the past, I’ve run this configuration with positive results and have never had an issue, although I do prefer to run 100-percent monofilament on my 130s when targeting big tuna. This is the one and only situation when I may present the lure spread way back in the super-long shotgun position (300-yards or more behind the boat) and I prefer not to have braid in my outrigger clips. However you choose to load your big-game reels, it pays to keep your spools filled to the brim because that monster fish that dreams are made of will smash an outfit that is short-lined every time!
Finally, minimize the line’s exposure to the sun’s powerful UV rays. Obviously you can’t do this while actively fishing, but at the end of each trip give the line a thorough freshwater rinse and place a cover over the reel. And whatever you do; never store your rod and reel outfits in the sun.
Leaders
When billfishing, especially competitively, I prefer long, heavy leaders in the 400-600lb. class. My double-line is generally six-feet, with my leader to the lure as long as IGFA rules permit. While many anglers have switched to wind-on leaders, I’m old school. I would rather the snap-swivel not be anywhere near the fish. A second advantage of a long leader is that a well-schooled deckhand can take his first wrap while the fish is still a safe distance out, and remain in control with minimum stress to the marlin. Additionally, if and when the first few feet of the leader gets billed, chaffed and/or nicked, it can be cut back and reused. And once the leaders are too short, you can use them as live bait rigs. This saves time and money in the cockpit. Leader material, too, should be neatly coiled and stored in an easily accessible tackle drawer. Clearly labeled, of course.
Hooks
With only a few seconds of TLC, quality Mustard stainless-steel hooks last for many seasons. Rinse them off at the end of the day with freshwater and very lightly lubricate with CRC, WD-40 or any marine lubricant. For budget-conscious big-gamers, non-stainless hooks will save you money. I have had great success with Owner’s Jobu Big-Game Series. These hooks mean business! With a corrosion resistant black chrome finish, they have the perfect semi-open bend for trolling, sharpen to a point with just a touch of a file and cost about half of what stainless-steel hooks cost. Whichever keeps you connected, the key to keeping hooks in the game is preventive maintenance after each use because unattended, acidic saltwater will eat away at a hook until there is nothing left!
Reels
Let’s take a close look at the expensive stuff. While today’s modern big-game reels are costly, man oh’ man do they get the job done! Modern marvels really, the technology that goes into these line-winding workhorses is exceptional. Plus, they are carefully manufactured to last a lifetime.
For more than two decades I’ve complimented my cockpits with Penn Internationals and Shimano Tiagras, and both continue to impress me. Recently though, I have been testing a set of Red Pig two-speed reels (www.RedPigFishing.com). Available in five sizes, initial results have proven that Red Pigs offer a quality package in a relatively affordable package. As far as size, the 80-wide holds 1,000-yards of IGFA ANDE 80. Eight stainless bearings provide an incredibly smooth reel equipped with a powerful drag system that will stop just about anything that swims!
Regardless of brand, the key to a big-game reel’s longevity starts at the end of the fishing day and flows into a regular schedule of preventive maintenance. After each use, rinse your reels with freshwater and pay extra attention to the drain holes in the bottom portion of the reel, making sure they are free of grease and salty grime. Chamois the reels dry before lightly spraying with a marine lubricant. Again, store the reels out of the sun.
I fish a lot, almost everyday, so once a month I disassemble my reels to check and repair any bearing wear and clicker plates. I also apply water-resistant grease and if necessary, I reset the drags. If you are not 100-percent ready to handle this, it is a job best left to professionals.
I have noticed that my lighter reels in the 30 and 50lb. class require the drags to be rebuilt more often. We do use them a lot and catch a heap of fish, so that goes hand and hand with the wear and tear.
Here is a hint that goes a long way; build a team environment and earn respect from your crew by leading by example. Work side by side with your deckhand(s) by taking care of the gear. If they see you with a chamois and can of spray lube in hand instead of jumping off the boat as soon as the dock lines are tied, you’ll see a huge increase in morale. It’s a small move but it sets the stage for the importance of preventive maintenance.
Rods
The greatest damage I’ve had occur to my rods was at the hands of inexperienced passengers, and usually when a billfish is hooked. In the heat of the moment, they think they are helping by literally throwing outfits inside the salon in a rushed effort to clear the deck. You can’t blame them; their adrenaline is soaring! In reality, if you are running a charter business or just out fun fishing with family and friends, establish a game plan and make sure everyone knows their specific role. While individuals don’t always follow the plan, when the action heats up, it will at least give them some sort of direction. The same procedure of freshwater rinsing and chamois drying the rods is followed at the end of each fishing day. The rollers, too, need to be lubed and cleaned after each use, and a simple solution of soapy water and a sponge will remove fish scales, suntan lotion and perspiration from the grips.
All in all, maintaining your valuable fishing gear so it remains in perfect working order isn’t hard, however it can be time consuming. Establishing an efficient routine and following it after each use is the key to trouble-free service and more importantly, is a major step toward eliminating tackle failure from the big-game equation. Finally, don’t forget that all of these same rules apply regardless if your arsenal is made up of ultra-light six to 12lb. spinning outfits, or 80 and 130lb. class big guns. In the long run, a little preventive maintenance will go a long way toward making you and your crew consistently successful anglers.
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