AS SEEN IN THE SPRING 2004 ISSUE

Wading can definitely be a fun and productive way to fish, even if you own a boat. And often, stealthily wading may be the only way to score. For instance, you may be ready to tear your hair out when seeking redfish on a particular day. No matter how many times you cast, your presentation is ignored and even the gentlest of deliveries results in spooked fish. Or perhaps, the fish aren’t so timid but they’re bunched up in really skinny water, where the only chance to reach them is by climbing out and quietly stalking on foot. Though before you take the plunge, I’d like to provide a few tips to help make the most of your trip.

First and foremost, you need to think about safety. In fact, you should ALWAYS think about safety as fishing induced injuries are extremely common. That’s according to the nice doctors and nurses I met at the hospital after I broke several ribs while fishing from a sea wall. Some other kind hospital employees said the same thing about a year ago, when the treble from a large top-water plug became hopelessly lodged in my hand. Both injuries could have happened to anyone, but my wife believes I’m a bit clumsy. 

It’s in deference to her that I offer the following warnings:

NEVER wade barefoot, as shells and stingrays could easily send you to the emergency room. Some anglers wear regular wading shoes worn by swimmers, but I prefer boots or high topped tennis shoes as they provide extra protection. They’re thicker all over, not just the soles and protect your ankles as well. There is a vast line of footwear designed specifically for waders and they offer the best protection, though they can be bit pricey. In addition to foot protection, you should gently shuffle your feet while moving. While it could spook the fish, it will also prevent accidentally stepping on stingrays which again is something you don’t want to do, even with boots.

NEVER fish without sun protection unless you’re fishing in the late evening or after dark. Be sure to use sunscreen and re-apply often, especially to your face, neck and arms. During daylight hours, polarized sunglasses will not only protect your eyes but will help you spot more fish. A broad-brimmed hat also helps cut down the glare as well as protects your scalp from sunburn. Fishing with the sun at your back is a good idea.

NEVER wade in an unfamiliar area. Your fishing area should have good lighting and you of course should have a flashlight and or a lantern. Trout and snook generally bite better after dark and with a little caution you can still catch plenty. You just don’t want to fall into a deep hole or pick up a potentially dangerous fish in the pitch black. You’d have to be crazy to try an unhook a catfish in total darkness and snook gill plates are razor-sharp.

Now that I’ve properly warned you, there are some other items you should take along. Unless you are going to release every fish you catch, a stringer or floating basket is a good idea. It’s possible, though unlikely, that a small shark or even a ‘cuda could attack a fish on a stringer. This is especially true where there is deeper water nearby or in the surf where water clarity can be poor. I once talked to a guy who said this has happened to him on four different occasions though luckily he was never hurt. This is why he now tethers an inner tube with a small cooler while wading. An old bellyboat also works well and it has pockets for storing some of your gear. I recently switched to an inexpensive floating fish basket so that I can keep toothy critters such as bluefish or mackerel, as well as spiny ones like sheepshead. You wouldn’t want to place these fish on a traditional stringer unless you attached it to something other than your body. Clipping a stringer with toothy fish to your vest or shorts would be a bit risky to say the least!

I always wear a fishing vest while wading. I’ve seen a lot of people wading with the absolute minimum of equipment, but since I often use artificials, I need to tag along a couple small plastic tackle containers. I’ve seen mesh fishing vests and they have the advantage of drying out quicker as well as being more comfortable on really hot days. Belly packs and tackle belts are also good, but may not provide you quite as much storage space. I also bring extra hooks, split shot, corks, a measuring tape, leader material and packs of plastic grub tails. You don’t need to take that much gear, but I like to be prepared for any occurrence and I rarely forget anything this way. Also, it wouldn’t hurt to put your extra gear inside ziplock bags to insure they keep dry. I also use a clip-on pouch for my pliers and knife. Finally, in one of the securely zipped pockets, place your keys and if required, fishing license. Don’t put these items in your pants pocket as losing them in the water wouldn’t be any fun.

To your vest, belly pack or tackle belt you can attach a bait bucket and net. Neither is necessary, but you’ll need the bucket if using live bait and a small net is a great way to insure that a fish you plan on keeping doesn’t get away. I’ve learned the hard way that when keeping a fish, it’s best to net first and then put the fish on the stringer while it’s still in the net and still on the hook. However, if you’re planning on releasing your catch, don’t use a net as it can injure the fish. Instead, use just your wet hands to insure a healthy release. The exception would be when handling catfish, particularly hardhead cats which have a tendency of bouncing around like kindergartners high on chocolate. You can get away without a net if you know how to hold them, but because of their spines and tendency to insanely go wild once they’re out of the water, unhooking them can be a difficult task. Additionally, catfish are very hardy and probably won’t be harmed by netting.

In most of Florida, it’s not warm enough to comfortably wade in shorts or trunks during much of the spring. However, this can often be the most productive time of the year, particularly during the really warm spells. So a good pair of lightweight breathable waders is a good idea. Neoprene or rubberized waders are not as useful because except in the coldest weather, they’re just too warm.

You can buy waders with boots built into them, but I like to buy separate boots because they may wear out before the waders. However, booted waders do have the advantage of preventing rocks, shells and sand from becoming lodged between your boot and the waders. Lighter waders do tend to tear a bit more easily so hold onto the patch kit usually provided. Mine look a little silly with a patch here and a patch there but they work just fine. Incidentally, rips and tears are more likely to occur if you have sharp objects in your pockets like keys and needle nose pliers.

We’ve all read that most fish have excellent eyesight and can easily spot you if you’re wearing bright colored clothes. Recommended, are blues, greens or beiges. I’m not sure how true this is, but I do seem to be catching more since I retired my red fishing cap. Wearing earthy tones certainly couldn’t hurt.

Of all the types of fishing, wading in saltwater probably does the most damage to your equipment. Most freshwater reels can’t hold up in the harsh saltwater environment. Often, strong fish encountered in saltwater damage gears that would have usually held up just fine when fishing for bass and bluegills. Your best defense is to use the right equipment and to keep it clean. After each trip, thoroughly wash your equipment. You can rinse rods and reels off with water and a very small amount of mild detergent. Thom Smith of Anglers Repair, fixes rods and reels for a living. I recently asked him which reels he feels hold up best for wade fishing. Without a doubt Penn reels are his choice as they’re durable, easy to repair and parts are readily available. On the down side, you do somewhat sacrifice smoothness in your retrieve and they’re generally a bit heavier than some of the imported reels. I use two Penns exclusively for wading and my 5500SS has held up just fine, though the 4400SS or 4500SS models which are slightly smaller, would also work just as well. I choose to fish a slightly larger size with more line capacity for situations when I run across tarpon or cobia. In addition to the Penn 5500SS, my other reel is a Penn 712. It’s an old-fashioned style reel and is very easy to take apart. Unfortunately, they no longer make this model so the only way to find one is from a source like eBay or a tackle store with a large inventory.

In addition to cleaning, periodically lubricate your reels inside and out. You usually don’t need to completely take a reel apart to do this, but on occasion it may be necessary. This is why I really like reels which have standard slot screws as they can easily be opened and the screws don’t become threaded quite so easily. I’ve been told that some reels are so well sealed that opening them to lubricate isn’t necessary, but until I personally come across a reel like this I can’t swear this to be true.

In addition to rinsing your rods and reels, it’s also an excellent idea to wash off your pliers, lures, hooks and any other metal objects you take wading. This includes your boots, as many are constructed with metal parts. Eye rings will rust very quickly and cleaning the boots will extend their life.
Finally, you need to find productive places to wade fish. You can wade any beach, pass or grass flat but you can reduce frustration if you do a little homework in advance. Keep up to date on outdoor columns in local newspapers and read fishing magazines. Calling local tackle shops for advice is also a great resource for recent information. Web pages are great places to get additional information and you can send emails to local captains who often are more than happy to provide a little friendly advice. One especially helpful captain encouraged me to phone him for updates even though he knew I was not interested in a charter. Web forums often provide an easy way to ask questions and read about other anglers’ experiences. Another idea is to join and support a local fishing club or make friends with people who wade fish and can tip you off to the latest catch. You could even meet a fellow wader while walking to your favorite spot and trade info and even fish together. It beats fishing alone and provides a witness when you hook that catch of a lifetime.

Remember that wade fishing is like any other type of fishing. Structure and bait concentrations are your keys to success. Focus your efforts around channel edges, oyster bars and areas with underlying mangroves. Look for pockets of bait, tailing fish and surface swirls. Don’t be under the assumption you can just walk out anywhere, cast a line and hook up. That’s not the real deal! What I usually do is pre-determine an area I am going to fish. Then, along with phone calls and the internet, I study a nautical chart and satellite imagery of the area. Often I am able to spot productive drop offs and depressions which I may want to focus on. A great site for satellite imagery is www.Terraserver-USA.com. Well good luck out there in your wading adventure and remember, a little homework will go along way!

Please feel free to contact me at wadingfool@earthlink.net if you ever have any questions or comments.

When it come to wade fishing, convenience and comfort are crucial to your enjoyment. The Wade Aid is a product we felt worthy of mentioning. Regardless if you’re fishing for slob redfish and gator trout in the†bays along the Gulf Coast or battling a powerful tarpon on a pristine flat in the Florida Keys, the Wade Aid belt is probably for you. This particular belt is the most functional and comfortable wade belt that we’ve ever used. It’s constructed of closed cell foam and is incased in neoprene with nylon webbing and hardware. The closed cell foam provides a unique lumbar support system. The rods and accessory holders are conveniently located for quick and easy access. Check the belt out at www.WadeAid.com or call 1-888-WADE-AID for more info.

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