Jersey Doormats

Visiting anglers will sleep well knowing their favorite fish also calls Florida home

  Best of all, they are found throughout the entire Indian River Lagoon system, so no matter where you fish along the 170-mile long estuary, you’re not far from consistent action.

     There are actually two abundant species of flounder that inhabit the Lagoon. The first is the gulf flounder, commonly known as ‘three spots’ and the second, the southern flounder. Gulf flounder are the smaller of the two species and rarely exceed a few pounds in weight while southern flounder can tip the scales at more than 15 pounds.  The world record is a monster ‘doormat’ at well over 20!  Some anglers are under the misconception that flounder are lazy bottom feeders that will not pursue a meal with any kind of gusto.  However, nothing could be further from the truth.  Flounder are in-fact bottom dwellers, but they are not only bottom feeders.  Flounder are also masters of concealment. They are ambush predators much like snook and trout, but instead of hiding in the grass or among the mangrove roots, they use their flat profile, cryptic coloration and their amazing ability to change their color tone to conceal themselves in the bottom sediments.  They lie motionless under a thin layer of sand and sediment with their eyes (both of which are on top of their head) peering up for an easy meal to swim within striking distance, and when it does they move with lighting quickness to inhale the prey.  Flounder’s preferred forage includes minnows, mullet and shrimp but without hesitation they’ll consume eels, crabs or just about anything else that swims in their strike zone.

     The tackle and techniques utilized to catch these frisky, tasty fish primarily depends on the time of year. Starting in the fall and continuing through early winter, flounder migrate out of the Indian River Lagoon and head into the deep Atlantic through the various inlets for their annual spawning rituals. From late winter to early spring they move back to spend the spring and summer seasons feeding in the Lagoon’s protected waters.  These two migration periods are ideal times to pursue flounder while their numbers are concentrated as they move through the narrow passages.  On the other hand, during the spring and summer months, the fish disperse throughout the entire lagoon, and since flounder are not a schooling fish, finding them in large concentrations can be tricky. But there are some promising locations and a number of productive techniques anglers can take advantage of to increase their odds.

     During migration periods while targeting flounder in the inlets, many anglers choose to anchor and use live bait such as shrimp, minnows or finger mullet. Due to the overwhelming force of the current in most inlets, they often rig with standard live bait rigs coupled with some sort of heavy weight to keep their bait on or near the bottom.  Does this technique work for catching flounder?  Sure it does.  Moreover, it’s a relaxing way to fish as you don’t have to worry about the boat drifting all over the place.  Is this the best technique for catching the most flounder possible?  Well, that’s debatable. Plus anchoring in the middle of or close to an inlet isn’t exactly the best way to make new friends on the water. Also take into consideration for a moment that live bait anchored to the bottom with a heavy weight does not drift naturally, if at all, and boats that are anchored do not move.  Flounder staging on the bottom are taking advantage of the current sweeping prey by them, so they are not moving around much either.  Consequently, if your bait is not moving and if the flounder are not moving, then your offering is only near the few fish that are in the proximity of where you decided to ‘set up’.  In addition, live bait tends to die quickly in the strong currents plowing through the inlet. 

      To catch the maximum number of staging inlet flounder, I recommend a different, more aggressive approach. It’s called drifting while using lightweight jig/twister tail combinations and medium-light tackle. It doesn’t take a rocket- scientist to know that you cover more ground by drifting which undoubtedly places your lure in the vicinity of more fish.  Plus, by drifting with the current you do not have to use heavy jigs or weights to keep your lure in constant contact with the bottom. 

     I generally use a 7-foot medium-light spinning rod combined with a Shimano 2500 Stradic spinning reel spooled with 10 lb. Power Pro.  I use Power Pro for this application for several reasons.  First, it does not stretch, so it’s very sensitive.  The sensitivity helps in detecting the bottom and subtle strikes.  Secondly, Power Pro is ultra thin which creates less of a drag than mono, allowing the use of light jigs.  Keep in mind that 10 lb. Power Pro is about equivalent in diameter to 2 lb. monofilament.  Lastly, Power Pro is very abrasion resistant. On the down side, in very clear water braid is fairly visible. To avoid spooking any fish I always attach a few feet of 14 lb. fluorocarbon leader material.   

     When searching for inlet flounder, focus your efforts around the time that the current is switching from outgoing to incoming or vice versa. During these tidal stages the flow of water is the weakest and will allow better boat control and the use of lighter jigs. Both sandy areas and rocky points can be equally productive so drift the entire inlet to pinpoint concentrations of fish. Using your trolling motor to maneuver will be advantageous once pockets of activity are located.

      I have had the best success flounder fishing the inlets with a º ounce florescent orange round lead-head jig. I prefer the round jig because it drops and drifts more consistently than flat profile jig heads. I tip my jigs not with shrimp or any other natural bait, but with a chartreuse twister tail grub.  My favorite is the Rip-Tide brand Swim Fin Grub.  Pitch the jig out and let it sink to the bottom. Keep a close eye on the line as it will indicate when the jig reaches its target. Once the jig hits the bottom, do not let it drag, rather jig it aggressively with a sharp twitch; essentially bouncing the jig off the bottom. I believe it’s the aggressive motion of the jig bouncing along the bottom as it moves along that elicits pounding strikes. Using this technique, when the flounder are really chewing, it’s not uncommon to catch 20 to 30 in a 2-hour period. Again, it’s critical that your jig hits the bottom as many times as possible so presentation will be crucial to your overall success. If the current or the wind become too strong and you’re finding it difficult to keep the jig bouncing on the bottom, go fish for reds, snook or trout and come back when the conditions are more favorable. Just remember that the current doesn’t switch in the inlets for at least an hour after high or low tide.

       If you’re fishing extremely rocky areas and your jig keeps getting snagged, try switching to a bottom bouncer rig similar to the ones originally designed for walleye fishing up in the mountains somewhere. I rig my bottom bouncer and trail a soft plastic bait such as a Rip-Tide brand mullet or Swim-Fin grub on a proper size worm hook about 2 or 3 feet behind.  A bottom bouncer rig allows you to bounce the weight off the rocks like a jig, but the heavy wire extending down from the weight keeps the rig from snagging in the cracks and crevices, thus avoiding ‘hang ups’.

      Throughout the summer months, anglers targeting flounder need to implement a new game plan as the fish will now be scattered throughout the entire Lagoon. As a rule of thumb, flounder will be concentrated where the current flow tends to be the highest. The edges of the ICW channel are ideal locations to search and we’ll get into that in a bit, but for now let’s focus on the sandy areas surrounding the multitude of small islands. When looking for flounder around these islands, focus your efforts on the narrowest of passages. Pay close attention to any cuts running in-between islands or between islands and the main shoreline. Here the strong currents created by tidal flow and/or wind will push schools of baitfish and unsuspected crustaceans past the ambushed fish.  I have had the best success in cuts and troughs that are sandy with little or no grass and even a bit mucky.  I use soft plastic shrimp imitations such as Rip-Tide brand weed-less shrimp and I work the baits directly on the bottom. 

      If the cuts and troughs don’t produce, look for ambushed flounder under residential docks. I can’t stress enough that the key is fishing the docks which have the strongest current flow. Also, look for docks surrounded by sand or muck and don’t be afraid to pitch your offering well into the shadows. You’ll be pleased at the number of flounder hiding there and you may be pleasantly surprised by a nice snook, trout or redfish.

   Getting back to the ICW channel, a change in methods and a move up to heavier tackle is required.  I use a medium to heavy action 7-foot spinning rod with a 4000 Shimano Stradic reel.  I spool the reel with 15 lb. to 20 lb.  Power Pro and I finish things off with a 30 lb. fluorocarbon leader.  The heavier tackle is necessary due to all the rocks and presence of bigger fish. Not only will you find the largest southern flounder in the deep channels but many keeper grouper will be bagged in these areas as well. Find the rocky ledges with your fish finder and more than likely that’s where the flounder will be hiding.  These ledges are usually 6-8 feet deep, and the water quickly drops off to 10-14 feet as you move off the ledge toward the middle of the ICW channel.   

    Rather than drifting, I anchor when fishing these areas because the prime rocky haunt is so small relative to the habitat that surrounds it.  If you do not anchor you’ll find it difficult to stay in the right depth and on top of the productive structure.  Try anchoring along the edge and use live finger mullet or shrimp rigged on a 3/0 Owner light wire circle hook.  Attach a _ ounce rubber core sinker a few feet above the hook.  I highly recommend the rubber core sinkers because if they get wedged in the rocks you can usually pull them off and get the rest of your rig back, which translates into less rig tying and more fishing. 

     Fish this rig by casting it into the deeper water of the ICW and bouncing it along the bottom, up the ledge and back toward the boat.  Move the rig very slowly, pausing every so often.  Strikes usually come just as you pause. A strike may be as savage as a WHAM! or as subtle as a little extra weight on your line so pay close attention. I have found the most productive time to fish these areas is during an incoming tide but I have caught fish on all the stages.

No matter where or when you fish for flounder, you need to have a large landing net handy. Flounder are not a fish that you want to land by hand and attempting to stick a gaff in a flat, slimy fish can be quit tricky. Worthy of mention is that the most sensitive part of a flounder is its tail. If you attempt to net the fish tail first, it will simply dart out of the net as soon as it comes in contact with the mesh. Trust me when I tell you, net the fish head first! Another important point about landing flounder or any fish for that matter: do not grab the fish with a towel unless you intend on keeping it.  Many times over the years I’ve witnessed anglers grabbing flounder with a towel only to release them.  Grabbing any fish with a towel will remove its protective slime coating and expose the fish to bacteria that will eventually kill it. Remember to keep conservation your #1 priority. 
Well until next time, good luck in your flounder fishing and tight-Lines to all.   

About the Author

Capt. Ron Bielefeld began his fishing career when he was only 4 years old. Nearly a decade ago, Ron moved to Sebastian Florida and started applying his fishing skills to catching what the Indian and Sebastian Rivers had to offer. Ron has dedicated his life to enjoying, sharing, teaching, and preserving the natural resources of Florida and the U.S. Capt. Ron currently owns & operates Tight-Lines Inshore Guide Service. A seasoned fishing guide with years of experience on the Indian River Lagoon, Ron says, “The Lagoon offers a wide variety of fishing adventures, from tackling the mighty tarpon to wading it’s shallow waters for sea trout, redfish, and snook. So, Regardless if you would like to tempt your scaly adversaries with a perfectly placed fly or if topwater explosions are more your game, the Lagoon offers opportunities to all who ply it’s waters.” In addition to guiding, Capt. Ron holds B.S. and M.S. degrees in wildlife biology and is active in the conservation and wildlife management fields. For the inshore trip of a lifetime, contact Capt. Ron Bielefeld at 772-388-9880 or visit TightLinefishing.com