AS SEEN IN THE 2004 SUMMER ISSUE

The straight up scoop on straight down deep dropping.

In its definition, deep dropping is a technique utilized to fish baits directly on the bottom in super deep water ranging in depth from 400 to over 1400 feet. For Mr. Joe Fisherman, the angling opportunities associated with deep dropping open up an entirely new fishing frontier. While definitely different then what we have come to recognize as recreational rod & reel angling, deep dropping is in-fact fun, challenging and very productive. In today’s angling world it is still rare to find anglers who incorporate deep drop tackle into their arsenals. It’s a shame as those who do reap big rewards!

Deep dropping is increasing in popularity. With more and more anglers looking to achieve higher levels of success within limited resources, fishing the bottom at such extraordinary depths facilitates the targeting of un-tapped resources. Most popular species regularly caught in the deep have never even seen a hook bait before! It’s important to note that the deep, dark depths see very little commercial fishing pressure. Conditions are often too adverse for commercial fishermen to consistently fish the bottom.

Anglers can deep drop just about anywhere there is adequate structure and deep enough water. It’s no surprise the technique seems to be most popular in the offshore regions of the southeast coast and throughout the Bahamas. The trick for successful deep dropping is matching the correct depth of water with the ideal habitat for the particular species you’re targeting. For example, tilefish, a prized catch known for their white flaky meat, prefer soft muddy bottoms where they can burrow into small caves and holes. Big grouper on the other hand, prefer hard rock ledges where they can find themselves safe havens and permanent residences.     

Regardless of which species you’re targeting, due to the extreme depths involved this fishery mandates the use of specialized tackle. Putting aside how strong you really are or how much stamina you think you have, manually reeling up a stringer of snapper or a large grouper from 1100’ will quickly take its toll. Electric rod and reel combo’s which have been primarily used in the commercial sector are the smarter choice. 

Today’s modern electric reels are compact in size, draw very little amperage and are extremely user friendly. Boaters privileged to fish aboard larger vessels enjoy the benefits of onboard generators and often take for granted the convenience of large 24 volt and 36 volt systems. These power-plants are considerably large and are just not practical for the mid-size boater. Luckily, with-in recent years the advent of the 12 volt electric reel has made this fishery accessible to even the small boat angler.

 Essentials for the Art of Deep Dropping

Electric Reels:
There are a number of well known manufacturers producing 12 volt electric reels. Leading the way is Kristal Fishing, based out of Miami, FL. They offer a full line of electric reels which are extremely popular due to their reliability, ease of use and overall performance. Lindgren Pitman Inc. makers of the famous Electralume Fish Light, also manufacture extremely powerful electric reels although their models are more commonly associated with the larger 24 volt systems. Precision Reels, Dolphin Electreel and Elec-Tra-Mate complete the list of popular manufacturers producing specialized deep drop equipment. As you can see the choices are vast as all of the above mentioned companies produce quality products that are specifically suited for deep dropping endeavors.  

When considering an electric reel, you should take a careful look at a number of features. Most importantly, look closely at the overall pulling power of the reel. This is crucial when fishing in depths exceeding 500’. A reel that has a minimum pulling power of 400 lbs. is an absolute necessity while there are even some models available offering a whopping 1000 lbs. of pull! Reels that do not have adequate pulling power will often burn out over a short period of time. This is why electric kite or teaser reels are not recommended for deep drop situations. On the flip side, if you plan on only fishing the shallower end of the deep drop spectrum, a smaller, less powerful and more affordable electric reel may be the best choice for you. 

Power consumption should also be considered. An average electric reel draws approx. 8 amps while larger units draw 15 and the more compact models draw around 5 amps. Options such as attachments and accessories, along with quality of components and warranties are other items that should be taken into consideration. As in all angling opportunities, using the best equipment enhances your overall experience and success, therefore purchasing the best deep drop equipment you can is highly recommended.

Electric reels are a cinch to install on just about any boat. The most important aspect of the installation process is the use of a quality 12 volt plug. Make sure to select one that can hold up to the harsh saltwater environment. After looking at several options, I opted to use the Kristal plug. While not the most economical choice, it was by far the best one for my specific needs. I own a 22 ft. Sailfish open fisherman, so exposure to the elements was my biggest concern. The Kristal plug passed this test with flying colors.

The installation is typical of any 12 volt install. A fuse on the positive lead, shrink wrapped connectors, soldered terminals, 8 or 10 gauge wire and plenty of silicone sealant. It is best to have the 12 volt plug connected directly to the battery and separate from your on board electronics circuitry. On my boat, I have a separate battery to power my electronics, keeping the navigational and fish finding equipment isolated from other gadgets that may cause electrical ‘noise’. 

A word of advice, all electric reels have some sort of fuse. Always bring extras with you. The last thing you want is to blow a fuse and not have a replacement available. This silly little mistake may render your reel useless and strand you with hundreds of yards of line out. 

As far as line goes, high visibility 80 lb. or 130 lb. braid is by far the best choice. Electric reels may be spooled with wire, however braid is much easier to use. Today’s ultra thin super braids offer the same knot strength as their monofilament counterparts and due to their thin diameter create much less drag in the water. The thinner diameter makes a huge difference when you have a 1000’ of line out. There are several quality braids available including PowerPro, Kristal, Jerry Brown and others. Any of these should perform flawlessly.

Rods: 
There are plenty of options when it comes to selecting a rod for deep dropping. You should make sure that whichever you select, it has the following features. 

*A short 80 or 130 pound class blank with a fairly sensitive tip.
*Large wind-on or big-foot guides
*A swivel roller tip
*A bent Butt

Take into consideration that your deep drop rod will be a stationary piece of equipment that will sit in your rod holder throughout the entire trip, including those times when you’re reeling in fish. This is why short bent butt models featuring roller swivel tips are desirable options. A model with a sensitive rod tip will assist in identifying striking fish while the large wind-on guides will permit the line to be reeled all the way in to the leader. Specialized custom built deep drop rods are available from Crowder Rods, Chaos Rods and Kristal Fishing, just to name a few.
 
Rigs:
Circle hooks are the norm for deep drop applications. All that is required is a 6’ length of 300 lb. test mono outfitted with at least 4 hooks. The hooks should be placed at even intervals with the use of 3-way swivels. A large snap is placed on the tag end to secure your sash weight which could range from 2 lbs. to 10 lbs. Conditions will dictate the amount of lead required to effectively hold bottom. Ideally, your line should stay at a 90_ angle to the water. In other words, straight up and down.

Battery operated fish lights are an absolute must for attracting attention to your hook baits. Strobe types seem to produce the best results. Preferred colors are green, white and blue. Chemical lights are not recommended for this application. It has been my experience that the chemical sticks rupture from the overwhelming pressure at such incredible depths.   

Bait:
Baits used in deep dropping may consist of live baits to fresh cut strips and chunks. Depth will of course play a pivotal role in the use of any live bait as they’ll rarely survive beyond 500’. Preferably, use fresh cut strips and chunks. Squid, mullet, bonito and ballyhoo will all produce equal results. Crabs & lobsters are another option, but the latter I’d rather eat than use as bait. Nonetheless, it’s an option. An all time deep drop favorite for taking giant grouper from truly deep water is a nice big chunk of fresh ‘cuda.

Other than possibly spicing up your strip bait with a soft grub tail or nylon skirt, artificial lures do not play a role in deep drop applications.

Electronics:
Powerful color sonar capable of reading the bottom at extreme depths is crucial to your success, while a model with a bottom zoom feature will definitely be advantageous. Your color sonar acts as your eyes and will reveal the density of the bottom you are fishing. Soft muddy bottom is ideal for tilefish although they’re the exception as it’s no secret that the majority of bottom dwelling species are drawn to structure. As a result, most deep dropping endeavors take place over reefs, wrecks or some other degree of bottom structure. Your sonar will facilitate pin pointing these locations.

In addition to electronic navigation, communication and fish finding equipment, every boater should have a set of laminated navigational charts overlaid with GPS coordinates. These ‘paper’ charts serve their purpose over and over again in many different angling situations and are well worth the investment. My personal favorites are Home Port Charts. These colorful charts incorporate a legend that allows anglers to quickly determine bottom contours. Charts should be reviewed prior to any fishing trip. Modern day boaters would all agree that a programmable GPS is an ideal tool to direct you to and from pre-selected fishing grounds but laminated charts have lasted the test of time and should always be onboard.

Deep artificial reefs are prime areas to deep drop. Keep in mind that most of the fishing that occurs around these artificial reefs is usually limited to boaters suspending live baits off kites or slow trolling baits just below the surface. Rarely will a bottom dweller swim hundreds of feet up to pick off surface baits. Deep dropping allows you access to this un-tapped fishery. Study your charts closely as most identify the location of deep lying wrecks.  

Your sonar will also play a pivotal role in allowing you to position your bait in areas where snagging is least likely. Dropping directly over top a reef or right into the heart of a wreck will most likely result in a snagged line. Remember, you’re fishing 4, 5 or even 6 hooks. Any experienced deep drop angler will tell you busting 130 lb. braid is not an easy choir. Position your vessel so your baits drift alongside the structure rather than directly on top of it.  

Maintaining your position:
Constantly maneuvering the boat plays a pivotal role in the success of any deep dropping endeavor. The helmsman needs to familiarize himself with how the boat should be handled. Anchoring is out of the question in depths exceeding 400’ or 500’, therefore a combination of drifting and maneuvering is essential to insure a consistent presentation. The goal is to keep the boat pointed into the current. By bumping the engine(s) in and out of gear, the boat can be jockeyed so that the line(s) remain vertical. Ideally, the sash weight should be dragging along the bottom while your multiple hook rig and main line remain straight up and down and as taught as possible. As you maneuver and drift over different bottom contours, the depth of water will change.  It may be necessary at times to reel a little line in or let a little out to insure the best presentation.

Is that a bite?
When deep dropping, strikes usually occur rather quickly, especially if you’re positioned over ideal habitat. As soon as the sash weight hits the bottom nearby residents will swarm in to investigate. An obvious strike is when the rod tip bounces up and down. You should now engage your electrical reel to insure a solid hook up by briefly reeling the line in. This is where the quality and speed of the electric reel and the no stretch feature of braid make a huge difference. If the pulling power and retrieval rate is less than sufficient, solid hook ups may be difficult to achieve. Once you are in-fact confident the fish has been hooked, the line should be released and dropped back to the bottom. Under ideal conditions, this up and down procedure is repeated until you’re confident each hook has a fish on it. The beauty of circle hooks is that you rarely lose a fish once it’s hooked.

Once you’re ‘filled up’, engage the reel and bring your line all the way up. As the fish approach the surface most will already be dead. The sudden pressure change not only kills the fish but also disfigures them as evidenced by their bulging eyes.

Deep dropping is a unique twist on recreational sport fishing, yet it’s a fun new frontier. Employing the tactics discussed will surely bring good times and great table fare to those who venture into this relatively new area of our watery arena.


 
SPECIES    DEPTH    BOTTOM QUALITY      
Grey Tile Fish           300’-600’    Soft Muddy Bottom      
Golden Tile Fish        500’-800’    Soft Muddy Bottom      
Warsaw Grouper      300’ plus    Wrecks & Reefs      
Queen Snapper         800’ plus    Wrecks & Reefs      
Silk Snapper             800’ plus    Wrecks & Reefs      
Snowy Grouper         800’ plus    Wrecks & Reefs      
Black Snapper          300’ plus    Wrecks & Reefs      
Yellow Eye Snapper   300’ plus    Wrecks & Reefs      
              
              

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