All Charged Up!

Written by FSF Crew

When it comes time to rig your boat, whether it be a new factory model or re-rigging a pre-owned boat, proper battery selection and wiring can mean the difference between years of trouble free service or headaches just months down the road.

One of the most important questions to answer is how much battery power is necessary for your particular vessel. The easiest way to determine this is by simply adding the amperage of each electrical component; commonly referred to as the “total amperage draw.” A flats skiff with a single GPS and one bait well pump would require a very minimal draw and a single battery system would be sufficient. On the other hand, a monster sport fishing yacht which uses flood lights, multitudes of electronics, electric kite reels, down riggers and a big powerful windless would require a multiple battery system.

Let’s assume our system will require two batteries. First and foremost, we need to determine what type of batteries to use. Our setup should consist of a marine starting battery and a second deep cycle battery, commonly referred to as the “house” battery. A marine starting battery is designed to provide a fast, powerful burst of energy to supply the demanding needs of today’s larger outboards. A deep cycle, or house battery, is designed for a slow drain of current to continuously power items such as live well pumps, lights, fish finders and accessories. An additional option, or for single battery applications, is to purchase one of the many combination starting/ deep cycle batteries which are currently available from most battery manufacturers. However, keep in mind that using a deep cycle battery to start your motor or a starting battery for your electrical needs will considerably reduce the lifespan of each. Unfortunately, this is a common mistake made by many boaters today.

Secondly, we will need to place both batteries on a battery switch. The battery switch allows either or both batteries to be drawn from or charged by the motor and helps us designate duties for each respective power source. One trick is to select only the house battery while on anchor or drifting. This will ensure a fresh starting battery to crank the motor every time. Next, installing a battery isolator will eliminate any risk of draining the starting battery in the event your “house” battery becomes fully discharged. An isolator prevents the amperage in the designated battery, usually the starting battery, from being utilized for any reason other than cranking your motor. A battery isolator is extremely beneficial in virtually all multiple battery configurations. The confidence of knowing you will always have enough power to crank your motor is certainly worth the minimal investment of a battery isolator.

Finally, an on-board battery charger plugged in back at the dock will ensure your batteries will always be in tip-top shape. They can be purchased for all battery configurations, including 6 and 8 bank setups. Most commonly found on inshore skiffs, on board chargers are making a showing with offshore boaters who have substantial electrical loads on their vessels. When purchasing an on-board charger, always go with a totally waterproof system. This will ensure years of trouble free charging and minimize the chances of battery failure.

When designing and installing your battery system, here a few guidelines that should be implemented:

Always place batteries in trays and keep them securely fastened. A battery that bounces or slides around will result in a shorter lifespan and could be damaging.

If designing a “high-draw” system, consider using batteries that require maintenance.

Maintenance free batteries are great, however, repeated draining and charging creates a lot of heat, a batteries worst enemy. This heat ultimately turns into evaporation. The ability to top off your batteries frequently will provide you with a longer lifespan and better performance.

Keep all electrical connections clean, tight and lubricated with one of the many corrosion resistant sprays available.

Using heat shrink wrap around terminals, crimps and connections eliminates moisture and ensures trouble free service.

Keep your batteries fully charged at all times. Label your connections to the battery switch. Organization will make troubleshooting a much easier task.

Always have more battery power than what your vessel requires. Similar to your fuel needs, a 20 to 30 percent reserve in amperage is recommended.

A typical three bank system, professionally installed runs around $1200 and includes batteries, trays, switches, isolators, cables and all necessary connectors. This might seem like a significant investment but it’s worth every penny when its time to run home from a long tournament day!

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