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AS SEEN IN THE MARCH/APRIL 2007 ISSUE
As we poled around
the corner of a creek, we came upon a triangular sand flat bordered by two channels
that ran out to sea. The skiff eased along, and Art Blank spotted tailing
bonefish 50 feet away in the “three o’clock” position. Simultaneously, I
spotted a pair of huge bar jacks slowly swimming away from us dead ahead. After
checking with the guide about the hardness of the flat, Art slipped overboard
into two feet of water to stalk the bones. I repositioned to the bow of the skiff
as the guide poled hard in pursuit of the hefty jacks.
When the distance closed,
I fired my yellow bucktail alongside an orange patch right in front of the
moving targets. One of the fish swerved toward the lure then spooked out to sea.
Disappointed, I slowly reeled in until I realized the orange patch was rising
up from the bottom towards my lure. It was a hunting pack of large mutton
snapper - all in pursuit of my baby Spro! I slowed the jig, twitched it twice,
and my rod doubled over as one of the colorful bottom dwellers inhaled my
artificial. After a seesaw battle of twenty minutes, I slowly eased the fifteen
pound mutton alongside the skiff. In the midst of this light tackle triumph, I blurted
to the guide that I had never had a shallow water experience quite like this one.
He looked up, smiled and said, “Welcome to Deadman’s Cay, mon.”
Deadman’s Cay lies inside Long Island’s
“fertile crescent.” Located in the island’s west central region, this area
boasts one of the Bahamas’
richest and most intricate angling ecosystems. This tapestry of light-tackle
opportunities runs from shallow shorelines to outside flats and drop-offs and
is composed of vast plateaus, salt ponds, islands, creeks, channels and
fish-filled blue holes.
Fishing the inshore waters of Deadman’s Cay conjures up comparisons
with the Lazy Susan. This delightful device - if you don’t know it - is a
circular spinning serving item composed of many segments for different foods.
Rather than chance a long reach across the table, you spin the Lazy Susan for
the dish you would like in front of you. This is the kind of fishing you’ll
find at this destination: varied, plentiful, pleasing and close-at-hand.
I’d chosen to fish with legendary Bahamian guide Samuel
Knowles. His reputation was stellar and the conversations we’d had while
setting up the trip indicated how proficient and considerate he was. His
well-run fishing operation is called Samuel Knowles Bonefish Adventures. In
addition to Sam, guides include Frank and Jerry Cartwright, as well as partner
Wayde Smith. Wayde handles lodging at their beachside lodge, Smith-Wells. Sam’s
claim that “we’d probably never see another boat all day,” turned out to be
delightfully true and backed up my belief that Long Island provides an
unpressured, truly Out Island experience.
The day for the trip arrived. My photographer, Art Blank,
and I made excellent connections from Miami to
Deadman’s Cay through Nassau;
all the flights were on time and were seamlessly run. When we landed at
Deadman’s Cay, Wayde Smith was there at the airport waiting for us. He helped
load our bags and rod tubes into his van and off we went. Within ten minutes,
we arrived at Smith-Wells.
We settled into our room, which had a full range of
amenities, including air conditioning and private bathroom. The refrigerator
was full of breakfast and lunch foods such as cold cuts, bread, cheese, fruit,
rum cake and plenty of ice-cold Kalik - this created quite a comfortable
setting.
We took a quick tour of the grounds before dusk. Sam’s 16
ft. Rahming bonefish skiff lay at the water’s edge no more than a hundred feet
from our room. The fact that Smith-Wells Lodge has Deadman’s Cay Sound as its
backyard is a distinct advantage, something we were to find out the very next
morning. As the sun set over Long Island, a
local chef delivered our dinner. Sleep followed quickly, and dawn came in no
time at all.
Shallow water sizzlers...
At 7:30 a.m., I heard Sam preparing his skiff and this jump-started
us out of the door with rods, tackle and cameras in hand. Sam loaded the skiff
carefully and fired up his engine. It took all of 30 seconds to ease through
the channel before Sam had us up on plane.
We’d been traveling no more than a minute when the skiff
slowed and the engine cut out. I turned to see what sort of mechanical trouble
was occurring and was pleased to see that Sam had killed the engine and was
already mounting the poling platform. He told us to peak astern and we saw a
patch of nervous water about 30 yards wide. Moments later, tails and fins
popped up out of it, and we knew we were being poled towards a huge school of
bonefish barely a half mile from the lodge! Moments later, both Art and I were
hooked up to sizzling bonefish that made the drags of our reels sing sounds of joy.
For the first two hours, we were able to stay with the
school by watching for tails and wakes. After that, the wind came up and the
sky clouded over. Although our first concern was that the fish would stop
feeding, we were pleased to see that they started mudding. Oftentimes, the muds
would be a hundred yards long! We switched to soft-plastic jigs on plug and
spin gear and stayed connected throughout the day. Most of the bonefish ranged
in size from two to four pounds, with six pounds being the largest. The first
day of fishing resulted in 60 of the more than 100 bonefish releases we would
accumulate over the next three days. This sort of non-stop action was obviously
what all the buzz was about.
For the second day of fishing, we asked Sam to hook us up
with as much variety as possible. More than willing to oblige, he told us we’d
be headed for the outside flats, channels and cuts that abutted the open ocean.
Since we were sampling this area in June, our good timing allowed us to have numerous
shots at larger reef fish that wandered inshore during early summer.
These outside flats featured combinations of fish we would
not have thought possible. Our first contact began in a creek dropoff where we
spotted a huge school of mangrove snapper, mojarra and bonefish all nonchalantly
swimming together. It was a tossup which of the species would grab our shrimp
and splitshot offerings. Further down the creek, we cast yellow jigs at surface-swimming
bar jack and horseye jack that produced hard fighting fish to eight pounds.
This excitement lasted the better part of the day, and peaked when we rounded
another bend that featured the hunting pack of mutton snapper that began this
story. It was another day of non-stop action that left Art, Sam and me deeply
gratified.
The third day was windy and a bit rainy, which discouraged a
trip back to the outside flats. We were hankering for more variety and told
Sam. He responded that he had a blue hole barely a mile from the Lodge that
would give us the excitement and adventure we were looking for. The one thing
he insisted on was bringing some pilchards - the preferred bait for larger
shallow water predators.
The blue hole lay at the convergence of two channels that
dropped to nearly 20 feet deep. One of the channels had a hard rock wall on one
side that went straight down, while the rest of the boundaries were sharp
sloping grassflats. As we staked uptide of the channel juncture, a big school
of tarpon rolled in front of us. We immediately cast baits and lures, but we
were unable to interest the silver kings because houndfish - some as long as four
feet - inhaled every offering. These strange looking creatures fought like juvenile
sailfish. After we caught about a dozen, we tired of this action and asked Sam
to relocate.
He cranked up the engine and idled close to the rock wall.
After deploying the anchor line, the skiff came tight just a short cast from
the rocks. He rigged two spinning outfits that were loaded with “8/30”
microbraid line with a small sinker above a 2/0 hook on a three foot 30 lb. fluorocarbon
leader. We baited with pilchards. As soon as the baits hit bottom, there were
immediate strikes. Art and I fought the fish on maximum drag settings to avoid
cutoffs. We both won brief battles as I boated a colorful Nassau and Art a chunky mangrove. After an
hour of nonstop action with jacks, snapper and grouper, we were out of bait. We
were happy to call it quits and reflect back on all of the incredible action we
experienced – this was Bahamas
shallow water fishing at its best!
Operation Lodge:
Smith-Wells Lodge is designed to provide accommodations to
six anglers maximum - this keeps the quality of the fishing very high because
of the low number of individuals plying the area on any given day.
The rooms are furnished in a simple décor that traveling
anglers enjoy, yet each room features all the amenities that fulfill the full
range of needs. This includes air conditioning, cable television, telephones,
microwave and a fully stocked fridge. The layout of the room has a sitting
area, kitchenette and two separate bedrooms with large ceiling fans.
The meals at Smith-Wells are formatted for guest preparation
of breakfast and snacks. Besides the aforementioned delights, refrigerators are
stuffed with eggs, ham, bacon, waffles, milk and plenty of cereal. The guides
take your lunch order and have the food tucked away in an ice chest as you
board your skiff for the day’s outing. Sam and Wayde have a local chef deliver
dinner. We dined on fresh grouper, conch, steak, and chicken entrees, which are
generally served with the customary local accompaniments of rice and beans, coleslaw
and freshly baked Bahamian bread. One evening, Sam surprised us with a
pre-dinner snack of fried mutton snapper cheeks which were delectable! Guests top
off their meals with a healthy slice of rum cake and ice-cold Kaliks.
The mission of Samuel Knowles Bonefish Adventures is to provide
a limited number of clients year-round flats and inshore fishing that is nothing
short of prolific, led by expert guides capable of catering to all levels of
angling skill - from beginners to experts. Wayde Smith was proud to point out
that they even have an angler who is bound to a wheelchair who regularly visits
to cash in on the area’s angling treasures. Sam and his guides have a policy of
not leaving fish action; safety, not a wristwatch, determines when they head
back to the lodge.
Because Deadman’s Cay offers such a rich, diverse habitat,
Sam can offer inshore anglers consistent action during most any kind of
weather. Towards that end, Smith-Wells is open for business from August through
June, with a little vacation time for the guides in July.
Basically, there are three zones Sam and his guides fish -
the inside flats (which are behind the Lodge), the transitional flats and
channels (15 minutes away) and the outside flats (another 20 minutes away).
Again, in this wide swath of habitat, you’ll find bonefish, barracuda, sharks,
tarpon, permit, mutton snapper, mangrove snapper, huge grunts, yellowtail,
enormous houndfish, grouper and multiple species of jack.
All three guides fish identical Rahming skiffs powered by 85
H.P. Yamaha outboards. These proven fish-catching boats safely and efficiently handle
the full range of shallow flats to open wavy waters with grace. Whatever your
preferred type of tackle, it is welcome onboard, since these guides are devoted
to making sure you have a wonderful experience.
Contact Data:
Samuel Knowles Bonefish Adventures
Long Island,
Bahamas
Phone and Fax: 1-242-337-0246
www.DeadmansBones.com
Recommended Gear & Accessories:
- Seven-
to eight-foot spinning outfit w/ 8 lb. line for bonefish
- Seven-foot
spinning outfit w/ 15 lb. line for cuda and mutton snapper
- Wiggle
jigs - Tube lures – Assorted swimming plugs - Bucktail jigs
- Various
leader material, 2/0 – 5/0 hooks, split-shots and small egg sinkers
- Eight-weight
fly rod outfit for bonefish
- Nine-weight
fly rod outfit for permit/tarpon
- Bonefish
Flies $4 & #6: Clouser Minnow - Crazy Charlie - Bonefish Special
- Permit
flies #1 & #2; Del’s
Merkin - The McCrab
- Polarized
sunglasses - Multi-purpose tool - Hook file - Reel lube - Lighter
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