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Applying the correct bottom paint is critical for increasing fuel efficiency and overall performance.
You’re extremely anxious to get your boat back in the water.
Unfortunately though you’ve got one more crummy job, you still have to
paint the bottom. You shoot over to your local boating accessory outlet
to pick up the paint, but quickly get the feeling someone is trying to
play a cruel trick on you.
Your intentions were to grab a couple gallons, a few accessories and finish with this job already. Your buddies have been beating up the dolphin in 300 ft. to 800 ft. so you’re anxious to finish with your late spring ‘sprucing up’, and finally get back out there.
At first glance down the paint isle you’re suddenly overwhelmed by the rainbow of colors and multitude of choices in the now seemingly endless world of bottom paints. Not knowing exactly what the best paint is for your particular application, you begin studying each can to try and get a better understanding. Standing there for what seems like eternity, you find yourself still confused.
To determine the ideal bottom paint for your particular boat, you must first ask yourself a few simple questions. How long does my boat stay in the water? How fast does it go and where do I regularly fish? These three questions may be a bit trivial and seem to have little to do with the topic of bottom paint, but think again. The bottom paint you apply needs to have a completely different finish if you leave your boat in the water continuously or if you haul it after every trip. The proper paint is also contingent upon whether your boat is capable of high-speeds or is basically a slow craft.
To achieve maximum efficiency, your vessel would also require a different paint if you primarily fish in warm brackish estuaries as compared to cooler open ocean expanses. There are obviously many complex choices, but fortunately they basically boil down to just a simple few once you comprehend the characteristics of bottom paint.
The question of cost-effectiveness.
Considering the three digit cost of a gallon of high quality bottom paint, your initial thought may be to purchase the most affordable paint on the shelf and just call it a day. This way, you can sneak in a few new trolling lures. Beware though, if you apply the incorrect, poor quality bottom paint, you’ll inherently be inviting several problems. First and foremost, crusty barnacles will inevitably grow on your hull and will create resistance or drag which will slow your boat down. Your engine(s) will have to work harder to overcome the additional drag, resulting in higher fuel consumption. Looking at today’s fuel prices, that’s a big issue to consider. On the long run, the few bucks you think you may have saved will really turn out to be a terrible bargain. The initial savings will quickly be outweighed by the cost of extra fuel and the extra time needed to get out to the ‘hot’ fishing grounds.
Secondly, to clean the barnacles off your boat, you’ll have to haul it and either pressure-wash or strenuously scrape the parasitic freeloader’s off. That too requires time and effort and also cuts into your already limited fishing time. Plus, I know it will cost more to have the boat hauled and cleaned than the difference in the price between the incorrect and the correct paint.
The choices in bottom paints
There are numerous types of bottom paint currently available. Each was designed and is best suited for a particular application and selecting one not intended for the type of fishing & boating you do, will likely impair your boat’s overall performance. To sum things up, there are generally four different options: soft rosin based paint, hard conventional antifouling, ablative antifouling and self-polishing copolymers, the last of which continuously leave a fresh layer of paint exposed through a chemical reaction with saltwater.
Soft rosin based paint relies on rosin (a natural material) in the paint to release copper biocide, the chemical which actually does the work of
killing marine growth. The rate of release tends to be inconsistent and once all the biocide has been released, the paint must be sanded off and a fresh layer applied. This type of paint is best suited for slow-moving or stationary vessels such as barges or small sailboats.
Hard conventional antifouling paint is a step up and provides solid protection against most marine organisms. The copper content varies and as the copper leaches (dissolves), it leaves behind a protective layer of paint. If you decide to apply hard conventional antifouling paint, you need to consider the water in which your boat is moored. If the water is brackish with a low salinity level, recommended would be paint with a high copper content and ideally one with boosting biocide as a slime preventative.
The slime preventative helps prevent the hull bottom from sliming up. If a layer of slime forms on top of the paint, it will slow or may even stop the leaching process of the antifouling bottom paint and eventually, organisms will find a foothold. Paints containing Irgarol and Biolux are slime resistant. Of note, Pettit calls its Trinidad with Irgarol, Trinidad SR, for slime resistant. Interlux, an unquestionable leader in the world of bottom paints, utilizes several different boosting biocides to control slime. Its term Biolux refers to the technology utilized to deliver the biocides in a controlled manner.
Ablative antifouling paints are altogether a completely different type of paint. The paint layer in ablative antifouling gradually erodes from the friction created as the boat moves through the water, leaving fresh biocide exposed. There are two catches here. First, the wearing away of the paint required to expose the new biocide occurs only when the boat is underway, so basically your boat has to be moving for this kind of antifouling bottom paint to be effective. The other catch is that you need to apply a really thick layer. Applying a single, thin coat and running your boat hard all summer long will wear the paint off the boat’s bottom long before the year comes to an end. If that happens, you’ll need to haul the boat out during mid-season, apply a new layer of paint and start all over again. Common antifouling ablative paints include Interlux’s Micron Extra with Biolux, Micron CSC, Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT and Pettit’s Ultima, Horizons & ACP-50. These paints generally provide long-lasting, full spectrum defense against fouling organisms.
The fourth choice is applying self-polishing copolymer antifouling paint. Originally developed to dispense Tributyltin (TBT), which eventually was found to contaminate the entire marine environment and were ultimately banned. Subsequently, a copper biocide was developed for use in copolymer paints.
Self-polishing copolymer antifouling paint is used extensively on larger yachts and has been found to last at least two full seasons without fouling. In fact, it is so popular and effective that most of the professional yachts that use this type of paint are only hauled once every three years. On an active sport fishing boat, a self-polishing copolymer antifouling is an ideal option, especially if you fish hard all year long. By applying self-polishing copolymer antifouling paint, your boat will be protected from fouling build-up even when stationary for prolonged periods.
Copolymer paints chemically react with seawater (they do not work in freshwater) whereby the paint layer erodes at a determined rate leaving behind a fresh coat of biocide. The only self-polishing copolymer paint currently available that you can apply yourself is Interlux’s Micron 66. Not only is Micron 66 a true self polishing copolymer antifouling, but it also offers the best protection against all types of fouling – from slime and algae, to weed and shell fouling. This is because it contains advanced biocides that are far superior to those used in former TBT antifoulings.
Keep in mind that if your boat was not designed to move fast through the water, you can definitely get away with softer paint such as Bottomkote, Tropicop or Unepoxy Plus. And for an added level of fouling protection you may want to apply Ultra-Kote or Trinidad. On the other hand, if the boat is a relatively fast craft, say 30 knots or more, recommended would be a harder paint that won’t wear off quite as easy by the abrasive action of the sea against your hull. With faster boats, consider Ultra with Biolux or one of the performance antifouling paints such as Micron Ultra, VC 17 or VC Offshore.
On boats that are regularly pulled out of the water, you should consider a multi-use paint that does not oxidize when removed from sea water. In this case, Micron paints would be a great choice as they are rated for multi-immersion use.
Even the best bottom paint only offers a thin layer of protection against the harsh saltwater environment our vessels face each outing. As a boat owner, you naturally want all the best quality products that you know will perform better than others, and give you the maximum long term value for the money spent. By applying the correct bottom paint today, you’ll save a great deal on the long run. Plus, you’ll know the job is getting done right the first time!
Sub article:
While ‘on the job’, you might-as-well take the time to repair any scratches or dings in your gelcoat.
If you’ve ever scratched or dinged your boat when docking, you may have had to take it to a boat yard to get repairs made, but you can do the job yourself at a considerable cost savings. This process is not difficult. For example, you could easily repair minor cracks in the deck or hull. If the mark is really deep and affects the structure or integrity of the hull, you should definitely go to a boat yard to get the damaged area professionally repaired.
The first task is to chip away any loose filler or gelcoat and then grind the edges of the ding or scratch back. Grinding back accomplishes getting rid of any loose materials and cleans up the damaged area.
The ding will then need to be partially filled with a layer of filler. Recommended is Interfill from Interlux. Interfill is a two-part filler that will provide a new strong bond with the damaged area. The area around the scratch or ding will also need to be masked off to prevent further damage while doing the repair. Trowel the filler into place with a small plastic spatula and roughly smooth. After the filler cures, grind back slightly below the surrounding area, and fill the damaged area a second time.
When the second application of Interfill has cured, sand with a long-board using 220-grit sand paper. Then refill any slight hollows to bring the work flush with the hull. This part of the job is tedious, but taking the time now will pay off in the end. When sanding filler and gelcoat, always wear a dust mask or respirator along with safety glasses.
As the dents or dings are filled, use finer and finer grades of sand paper until the last grade is 320-grit. Having reached a satisfactory finish, mask off the surrounding area and spray or brush on a primer coat of Interlux Epoxy Barrier kote 404/414 primer. Once dry, the primer can be lightly sanded back using 320- grit wet and dry paper and the residue wiped off with Interlux’s Special Thinner 216 solvent. A second coat of primer is then applied and sanded back, providing the topcoat with something to adhere to. The topcoat of choice for this job is Interlux’s two-part polyurethane Interthane Plus, which can be applied with a brush or roller. That’s it. Done!
In cases where the damaged area is very large, you may be better off having a boatyard finish it for you. The yard may have to repaint an entire side or the complete hull in order to match the original topcoat color.
By using fillers and paints made by the same manufacturer, the entire job is assured of compatibility. If you use products from different manufacturers, you may find that they react with each other, and the finish may be compromised
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