AS SEEN IN THE JAN/FEB 2006 ISSUE

To find the answer, ask yourself one simple question;

Have I ever seen a baitfish without eyes?

So how important are eyes on a fly? Undoubtedly, this facial feature plays a critical role in our fly fishing success. Not only do eyes add cosmetics to a pattern’s overall appeal, but the general consensus amongst the saltwater fly-fishing community attest that a fly with eyes will entice more strikes. Experts all over the state believe that a predator hones in on its prey using the eye as an orientation point and that eyes trigger natural predatory instincts, forcing fish to commit.

Supporting the theory, a number of gamefish have false eyes on their bodies to disorientate would-be predators. The dark spot on a redfish’s tail is a prime example of this evolvement. On the flip side, there is no denying the fact that there are many effective fly patterns without any special features whatsoever which really don’t appear to mimic anything edible. I’m sure more than one experienced fly-fisherman has wondered why hundred pound tarpon strike traditional tarpon flies so well. I mean a laid-back Keys style tarpon fly really resembles…well…a blob of nothing. If you scale the pattern down to a number two hook, brown trout in a mountainside stream somewhere would probably jump all over the bland design. Nonetheless, the fact remains that the majority of effective fly patterns in use today, most of which developed by master fly tying enthusiasts with generations of experience, include all sorts of crafty ways to mimic eyes.

During the dawn of fly tying, the only way to apply eyes was with paint which was allowed to dry and then covered with head cement. In the early stages of my career, I first learned how to make eyes out of burnt mono, stick pins, pull chains or small beads glued to a piece of monofilament. Many of these same techniques are still in use today as the preferred method. Today though, things are different. Fly patterns are constantly being reinvented by common, everyday items found around the house or at local craft shops. Nowadays there’s a wide assortment of eye related products on the shelves as a result of companies competing for their share of the rapidly growing fly-tying industry. Realistic prism eyes happen to be my personal favorite.

The prism eye is a raised plastic orb with a 3-D effect. They’re sold on paraffin-coated sheets and peel right off for easy use. Even though prism eyes are manufactured with a sticky backing, I would still recommend spreading a drop of epoxy around the perimeter of the eye to ensure durability. Due your best to avoid spreading epoxy over the eye which may hamper the eye’s clarity.

There are also endless varieties of peel & stick eyes that are basically nothing more than flat decals. Peel & stick eyes look as tempting as prism eyes except they don’t add any noticeable weight or buoyancy to the fly. When applying these small stickers, lay them in the desired position on the head of the fly and completely coat with a thin layer of epoxy. Both prism and peel & stick eyes come in a wide variety of sizes and colors. If you think about it for a moment, the variations of patterns are endless.

Weighted eyes are the most popular for sinking flies for obvious reasons. Dumbbell eyes are available in an array of sizes, weights and color schemes. Clouser Minnows and Merkins are prime examples of patterns tied with weighted eyes. And thanks to environmental friendly fishermen, lead-free alloys and brass are now the norm. Some dumbbell eyes even have recesses where you can add the appeal of plastic prism eyes. Keep in mind though you will be adding additional weight and buoyancy to the fly. Matt’s 40, Puglisi Minnows, and numerous Deceivers are popular patterns tied with dumbbell eyes with flashy prism inserts.

Bead-chain is a wonderful material for adding a small amount of weight to your fly while perfectly mimicking enticing eyes on baitfish patterns. Most specialty shops sell bead-chain in 18"-24" sections. You can save yourself a few bucks over time by heading to the local hardware store, which will carry a limited selection, but priced well below most fly shops. The best of both worlds can probably be had by visiting an arts & crafts store. You can generally find a large selection of bead-chain sold by the foot at very reasonable prices. If you can find it in really small sizes, grab it, it's perfect for bringing tiny baitfish patterns to life.

On a lighter note, black mono eyes, which have been available for more than a few years now, are ideal for shrimp and crab patterns as they barely add any weight to the fly. They may however, affect the fly’s buoyancy.

Speaking of which, doll eyes, which have the clear plastic bubble with the flat black pupil that slides around inside of it, add positive buoyancy to any fly. They also create a little noise by their ability to rattle. Doll eyes are ideal for complimenting poppers of all kinds. You will find them on hair bugs to sailfish flies. I recommend using Shoe Goop or epoxy to attach doll eyes. By the way; Shoe Goop also makes excellent head cement when mixed with toluene, items found at any hardware store.

Doll eyes, prism eyes, and decal eyes are almost always the last step to a fly with the exception of applying epoxy.

Keep in mind that there are no limits to your creativity when it comes to fly tying. The vast majority of flies that you see on the on the market today are actually clever adaptations of patterns that have over the years proven their effectiveness. This is the beauty of tying your own flies. There are never any rules or limits to your imagination.

The following illustrates various methods of including eyes in your design. Dumbbell eyes, bead-chain, and black mono eyes are for the most part tied on the hook shank with the identical procedure. Precisely where you place the eyes is determined by the pattern and what materials you will be using. For instance, some of the latest shrimp patterns for bonefish and redfish recommend you position weighted eyes at or around the bend of the hook. The placement is designed to weigh the fly so it will ride hook point up. Though for the vast majority of baitfish patterns, these types of eyes are usually tied in on the first third of the top portion of the shank. The positioning provides the fly a natural look and swimming motion. Water depth and preferred sink rate will be contributing factors in deciding which size/weight of eye to use.

Step one when tying any pattern with these types of eyes, is to wrap a short bed of thread where you plan to tie in the eye. This helps absorb the glue and prevents the eye from spinning on the shank. Place the eye where you intend for it to be seated and crisscross your thread in a figure-8 over the middle of the eye. I would also wind the thread in a few circles between the eye and the shank to help secure it in place. At this point, apply a drop of glue around the thread and align the materials in the proper position for the next step of the recipe.

When tying common Clousers or more than a few flies of the same pattern, I like to tie on all of my eyes first and then go back and complete the project. This way I can put those materials away so that my space remains uncluttered.

For a personal touch, I often hand paint my dumbbell and bead-chain eyes. When doing so, I prefer to use wooden chopsticks that have been run through a pencil sharpener to create flat tips of various diameters. I dip them in enamel model paint which is fairly thick and won’t drip. I’ll use the larger point for the white part of the eye and the smaller stick to paint the black pupil. Experiment with whatever color combinations you would like. Again, the variations are endless.

When I tie my own concoctions, I like to have all the crucial elements on the fly working in my favor. I want the pattern to swim and look as natural as possible. I like the fly to have its head close to the point of the hook. This helps the fly swim and for some reason, the material doesn’t foul as often. With the head being close to the hook point, it also means the eyes will be in the correct position. If fish do strike at the eyes like many experts believe, it follows reason that there is a better chance for a solid hook-up. It could be urban legend, but fishermen are suckers for superstition anyway.

One last note that will help you when working with eyes, when mixing epoxy, it is very important to use equal amounts of resin and hardener. This will insure a faster curing time. Do not use toothpicks or other forms of wood. Those items have preservatives that may cause the epoxy to yellow. I would recommend a metal bodkin.

“BLACK DOG”

The following is a recipe for an adaptation of Matt’s 40. It is durable and easy to tie. This fly features 3-D prism eyes, swims very well, and draws a strike almost every time it passes in front of a variety of fish.

Materials:

1. 1/0 hook, though this fly can be made in any size.

2. Danville’s Black flat-waxed nylon thread.

3. Black Marabou

4. 6 neck or saddle hackles

5. Pair of 3-D prism eyes

6. Two part 5-minute epoxy (try to use hobby epoxy that comes in separate bottle as opposed to the syringe style. The quality stuff tends not to yellow.

Procedure:

Step 1: Start your thread above the hook point.

Step 2: Tie in one shock of black marabou on each side of the hook shank. Then tie one shock on top of the hook shank.

Step 3: Tie in three black hackles on each side of the hook point (over the marabou) curving them inward and down. Form a head and then whip finish.

Step 4: Place your prism eyes on each side of the fly. Carefully cover the head with epoxy around the eyes. It is usually necessary to take the fly out of the vice and baby-sit the fly with a pair of hemostats to get the head to take shape until the epoxy sets.

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