AS SEEN IN THE SUMMER 2004 ISSUE

Pick The Right Stick

Selecting the correct fly tackle can be a daunting task for novices but is essential for success.

It’s Saturday afternoon and you’re laid out on the couch channel surfing. Briefly, your thumb stops as your eye catches Flip Pallot slip a MOE (Mother of Epoxy) fly to a tailing bonefish somewhere in the Bahamas. Or perhaps it’s Jose Wejebe, down in the Marquesas feeding yellow bunny flies to giant tarpon.  “Hmm”, you slowly lower your brewski to the coffee table and lean a bit more towards the tube.  Though you may be a “meat” fisherman at heart, you’re in awe of those long, perfectly executed casts. For years you’ve pondered the thought of giving fly fishing a try. You think to yourself, “maybe now’s the time”.

 For those that would like to try fly fishing, but may be confused by the multitudes of manufactures or the tangle of terminology, relax. Here we offer an introduction to start you off on the right foot. Who knows? With a bit of practice, a tight loop and an accurate cast may not be far off. Before you know it, you may forever leave the bait sticks at home.

When it comes to selecting the correct fly rod, anglers must keep in mind that fly fishing the waters of South Florida require stouter equipment then when pursuing brook trout on freshwater streams. The demands required of saltwater fly fishing tackle are greater due to a number of factors. The larger size and nature of the species pursued, the wind (which seems to be a constant companion on the Florida Keys flats) and the presentation of larger flies all demand more from a saltwater fly rod. Anglers new to fly fishing must take into consideration that species such as bonefish, tarpon and permit have uncanny eyesight, requiring precise, lengthy presentations which can only be achieved with the correct equipment.

In general, fly fishing tackle is typically purchased by matching each piece to one another. In choosing an outfit, one would typically select a nine-weight rod, with a corresponding nine-weight reel and its corresponding line. The larger a number or weight class, the heavier the fly fishing outfit. While one could subdue bonefish, permit and small tarpon on a 9-weight outfit, snook and redfish in the backcountry would probably be better pursued on a lighter eight weight. One could even step down to a seven weight outfit if fishing for small reds, seatrout and other juvenile targets back in the Everglades National Park.  On the other end of the spectrum, eleven and twelve weight outfits are essential when sight casting to giant tarpon and big sharks, while fly fishing the Gulf Stream for sailfish and tuna may even necessitate going all the way up to a 15-weight system. Though one may be able to hook a large fish of any size on a light weight outfit, getting them to the boat might be a tough proposition without the increased backbone of a heavier fly rod.

If budgetary issues constitute having to pick a single fly fishing set up to fish the waters of South Florida, I would choose a nine foot, nine weight outfit. A versatile rod, it would allow one enough power to work a long cast into a stiff breeze, cast large flies and have the muscle to boat larger piscatorial pursuits.  From bonefish and permit on a coral encrusted bottom to dolphin and smaller tuna in the ocean, a nine weight outfit could handle them all.  
In most cases, one would benefit from a stiffer, fast action rod or what’s commonly known as a “tip flex” model. Whether punching a midrange shot into a stiff breeze, or laying out a lengthy cast to a tailing bonefish on a balmy June morning, a faster, more powerful rod will efficiently transfer the energy from your forearm through to the rod tip.  Most saltwater fly rods also provide larger diameter guides, allowing the occasional knotted fly line to slip through while still being able to control a fleeing bonefish or grey-hounding tarpon.

Now that you’ve selected the perfect rod, the choices that confront one in a fly shop during a reel purchase can be vexing. Large arbor or rapid retrieve? Teflon, pawl or carbon fiber drag? T-6 hard-anodized aluminum aircraft grade bar stock?  Huh? Which qualities and features should an angler pursue?  How much should one spend? The biggest differences between low budget reels and higher priced models would have to be in the drag system, the reels construction and its finish. Oversize disk drags, anodized finishes and large arbor spools are important features to consider when purchasing a fly reel. A bonefish, tarpon or permit will test the limits of any size fly reel and a smooth drag system is critical; bearing in mind that many saltwater species fight long and hard. The blistering, sustained run of a 125-pound tarpon will quickly destroy a low budget second rate reel. Heat and mechanical stress combine to tax inferior equipment. 

On a skiff in South Florida, the salt has a way of finding its way into everything and exposed metal will not last long. Anodized finishes are essential to a reel’s durability.  A true large arbor design which increases the retrieval rate of a reel, will offer better line control when a bonefish or tarpon that’s far from the skiff chooses to suddenly rocket toward the boat.

The maintenance required on cheaper model fly reels used in the harsh saltwater environment may also be significant.  While one could certainly use a freshwater model for small seatrout, snook and redfish in the backcountry, the care and maintenance of that reel would necessitate a thorough washing and lubrication after each and every use. If pursuing a more demanding target such as a hefty permit or tough blackfin tuna, it would be practical to invest as much as you can into your fly reel. On more than one occasion I’ve witnessed drags freeze and reels explode. The helpless look of horror upon an angler’s face as his spool separates from the fly reel and leaps off the gunnel into the water is one I will soon not forget. Having lost the fish of a lifetime, an angler is left red-faced and embarrassed. Once again, while many a bonefish and redfish have been caught on lesser equipment, I offer this piece of advice: better to be prepared with a better-built reel, than risk losing that once in a lifetime trophy. When it comes to fly reels, you do typically get what you pay for.

When contemplating the purchase of a fly reel, I again would recommend purchasing the very best you can afford. Keep an eye out, as there are some excellent “value outfits” which perform extremely well. While the 2005 models are introduced with increased technology and higher price tags, a 2004 model may offer a better value with very little perceivable change in performance. Visiting a large retailer will offer a wide selection and allow you to determine differences for yourself.

For the most part, the majority of fly fishing in South Florida is performed in shallow water so one should choose fly line accordingly. Fly line properties are many, but fishing the flats or backcountry typically requires a weight forward floating line. All major brands such as 3M Scientific Anglers, Cortland and Orvis offer fly lines in varying colors, weights and tapers (shape). In the warmer southern waters, utilizing a fly line produced with a stiffer braided core and minimal memory may help in casting further and in eliminating tangles. Choosing a “bonefish” or “saltwater” taper would be a start in the right direction. One might also purchase a sink tip line for use when fishing backcountry channels and deeper cuts. A word on clear tip fly lines. While in use, I find it difficult for an angler to track his fly in the water. The ability to see the end of the fly line allows an angler and his guide to better track the fly and its presentation to a target. Although, clear tip fly lines do have their place during specialized situations.
Some manufactures offer line tapers, which include a weighted or shorter head. These specialty tapers can help to turn over a fly on a windy day or to help make a quicker cast, but may also be detrimental when a gentle presentation is necessary under calm, tailing conditions.

In addition to fly lines one must consider leader options. A basic saltwater leader system consists of a butt (beginning) section connected to the fly line with a nail knot. The main leader and its tippet at the end, would tie to the butt section. Generally, for a nine weight line, I would attach a three foot piece of thirty pound hard mono for use as the butt section. One would use a heavier butt section for a heavier weight fly line and conversely a lighter monofilament for a lesser line weight. The butt section of leader should be of an equal stiffness or ‘flex’ as the fly line that it attaches to.  After both are knotted together, grasp each an equal distance away from the knot and gently bend in an upward motion. The resulting rise should be even in its curve, allowing an even transfer of energy from the fly line down through the leader. 

The main body of the leader can be hand tied with various decreasing diameters of monofilament, or may be completely knotless as many produced by Mastery or Umpqua are. Though for years I’ve tied my own leaders, I now prefer the knotless type for convenience. Fewer knots in the leader system, means less to fail while fighting a fish. The knotless varieties also seem to hang up less when used by a novice angler which is an added benefit.
Pre-manufactured leaders are available in lengths from nine to twelve foot. The length of leader used is determined by the species sought and the environmental conditions for the day. On a windblown, overcast day, one might get by with a nine or ten foot leader. Casting to a laid up tarpon on a horizon-less June morning may require going as long as twelve or fourteen feet.

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While the fly line is connected to the butt section with a Nail knot, the connections thru the tippet are better tied with a Blood knot or the easier Surgeon’s knot. Though many of the saltwater flats species are without teeth, some do have the ability to wear or rub through leader material. For those seeking a bit of protection from the raspy mouth of a tarpon or the razor sharp gill plate of a snook, a heavier piece of monofilament or shock tippet can be tied to the leader utilizing an Albright Special. A light trace of wire can also be joined using this method when fishing for mackerel, shark or barracuda. When bonefishing, most anglers will skip the shock tippet altogether and attach directly to the leader.

As for attaching the fly to the tippet, I will usually tie a Homer Rhode Loop knot.  Most of the flies in my box have some weight (dumb bell eyes), and benefit from the added motion provided by this free sliding loop knot. The time spent learning to tie a few basic knots such as the Bimini, Blood, Nail, Albright and Homer Rhode is essential. It’s a sad sight having a man hook his first big tarpon and watching his fly line separate from its backing while the fish is on a swift course towards Cuba. Though most of these knots are not hard to tie, it is important to tie them correctly. If you moisten each knot before drawing it tight and apply a smooth steady pressure while doing so, you’ll be rewarded with safe, secure knots and very few failures. 
Fluorocarbon or hard monofilament leaders is another issue worthy of consideration. Though much has been debated on the benefits of one over the other, I must say the actual presentation of a fly is much more crucial than the additional cost of fluorocarbon leader material. I might go to fluorocarbon if I’m fishing clear, quiet, shallow water or while using larger tippets for tarpon. In the skinny waters of the backcountry, I prefer a monofilament such as Trilene XT which has a greenish tint to it.  It blends in to the environment a bit better and while of a finer diameter, it offers terrific abrasion resistance.

In choosing your new fly gear, remember it is not the equipment that catches the fish, but rather the angler casting to the fish.  While the investment in your new fly tackle may require a bit of your cash, learning to cast well will take even more of your time. Save a bit of frustration and start your budding fly fishing career off with few bad habits. It helps to find a good instructor, perhaps through a local fly fishing club. If you reside in South Florida, contact the South Florida Fly Fishing Club at www.sfffc.org or e-mail them at tarponchsr@aol.com.  Fly fishing is more about technique than strength and more about feel than flailing. A good instructor has the ability to teach in a clear and motivating manner.  There are also many fine books available on the subject such as Lefty Kreh’s “Longer Fly Casting” and “Solving Fly-Casting Problems”.  Ed Jaworowski’s “Troubleshooting the Cast” is another fine teaching manual.

Take the time to reap the rewards of fly fishing. You’ll soon discover there’s more self achievement in the casting than in the catching.

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