Seriously Stuck!

Follow these simple steps and never lose an anchor again.

Go ahead and name the one topic that every boater at one time or another has been frustrated by. The answer will always be the same - anchoring. Regardless if you’re a near-shore bay fisherman or an offshore sinker-bouncer, the act of anchoring and all of its associated hardware – dubbed “ground tackle” - plays a huge roll in the game that we play. Without it, it would impossible for us to maintain our position over prime habitat where we’re able to put together such fine catches of tasty snapper, grouper and other highly desirable bottom dwellers

Nor could we safely maintain our position in the event of an emergency such as loss of power in heavy seas. Proper anchoring and the “know how” that comes along with it isn’t an option, but rather mandatory knowledge that every boater – novice or professional - must possess.

Those of us who regularly fish reef and rubble know that proper boat positioning comes with its own unique set of challenges. One of which is what to do when the anchor physically gets stuck in the unforgiving structure below – the same unforgiving structure that does such an excellent job of attracting our quarry. Any wreck or reef fishermen worth his weight in salt will tell you that it is not uncommon for the sharp, wide flukes of an anchor to get lodged under a submerged boulder or deteriorating piece of sunken debris. Even when you take the necessary precaution of setting your ‘hook’ in what you hope is obstruction-free sand a safe distance from the jagged rubble below, anchors do tend to slip and do, in fact, get seriously stuck!

While there are multiple manufacturers producing ‘breakaway’ type anchors in a variety of different configurations – which may, in fact, be the perfect option when looking to upgrade – pre-manufactured breakaway anchors are generally a little more costly and may not be the reasonable choice for the average boater whose vessel is already equipped with a perfectly good Danforth style anchor.

One make-sense remedy is to rig a breakaway anchor on your own. As long as you have access to a power drill, inexpensive plastic tie-wraps and a bit of corrosion resistant hardware, you’ll never lose an anchor again!

With a breakaway anchor, if your ‘hook’ gets seriously stuck, all a helmsman needs to do is position his or her vessel just up-current or up-wind of the anchor and by applying enough force, the wire ties will part and the anchor will now literally get pulled out backwards – free of any obstructions. It may sound somewhat primitive, but in reality, it’s that simple.

Rigging a break-away anchor:

Step 1:Remove anchor from boat and place on stable surface.

Step 2: Drill a hole in middle of plate located at the center of the anchor stock

Step 3: Affix end of anchor chain to hole with stainless steel corrosion-resistant shackle (if shackle can not be obtained, a corrosion-resistant bolt with washer and locking nut will suffice).

Step 4: Lay chain along anchor shank and attach to shank eye with a few heavy-duty plastic wire tie wraps.

Myth - Catapulting an anchor over the bow will help it grab quicker and will increase its holding power.

Fact - Not True! Tossing the anchor over the bow offers no benefit. You’re better off safely easing the anchor into the depths.

Anchoring Tips:

Anchoring a boat of any size in any depth of water is an exercise in physics. It is a function of heavy gear, applied force, friction and proper angles. Regardless if you are a novice boater or experienced seaman, lean towards the ‘heavy’ side when selecting ground tackle to insure solid connections.

• Invest in an anchor winch - called a windlass - to retrieve the anchor.

• Carry one complete anchor system onboard that is fully ready to be deployed at all times. In the event of loss of power, hurriedly attempting to connect all of the components won't be enjoyable when rapidly drifting toward a reef or beach. If at all possible, carry a second anchor with chain and rope securely stowed in a below deck compartment.

• Never attach the end of an anchor line to the stern of the boat. The vessel won't ride properly on the rode – the length of rope and chain connecting the anchor to the boat - resulting in water being forced over the transom which can literally flood and ultimately capsize the vessel.

• The length of chain attached to the anchor stock must be long enough and heavy enough to keep the anchor lying parallel to the seabed.

• The length of rode played out is called the scope. If you think about the goal of keeping the anchor securely imbedded in the mud or sand, you quickly realize that more scope is better. Measure scope as a ratio - the length of the rode compared to the depth of the water. In calm weather, a scope of 3:1 is generally sufficient. In heavy weather, as much as 7:1 may be required.

Anchoring Myths & Facts:

Myth: The heavier the anchor, the better.

Fact: Modern designs and state-of-the-art manufacturing processes have made anchors not only better, but lighter! Unlike yesteryear when anchor holding power was based on bulk, nowadays, anchor design has more effect on holding power than weight.

Myth: Steel is the strongest material for anchors.

Fact: Not true! Many materials are now stronger than steel such as high-tensile aluminum-magnesium alloy which is well suited for anchors and is, pound-for-pound, more than twice as strong as steel.

Myth: All anchors perform the same way.

Fact: Wrong! Different designs and different materials make anchors perform differently. It always pays to invest in the best performing anchor that you can.

Myth: Anchors that look alike are alike.

Fact: Not! Looks can be deceiving. Technical designs, manufacturing processes and metal alloys go through varying degrees of quality control making some anchors just plain better. Be sure to look for independent testing of holding power and approval from standard organizations.