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 AS SEEN IN THE NOV/DEC 2007 ISSUE
Follow
these simple steps and never lose an anchor again.
Go ahead and name the one topic that every boater at one
time or another has been frustrated by. The answer will always be the same -
anchoring. Regardless if you’re a near-shore bay fisherman or an offshore
sinker-bouncer, the act of anchoring and all of its associated hardware –
dubbed “ground tackle” - plays a huge roll in the game that we play. Without
it, it would impossible for us to maintain our position over prime habitat
where we’re able to put together such fine catches of tasty snapper, grouper
and other highly desirable bottom dwellers
. Nor could we safely maintain our
position in the event of an emergency such as loss of power in heavy seas.
Proper anchoring and the “know how” that comes along with it isn’t an option,
but rather mandatory knowledge that every boater – novice or professional -
must possess.
Those of us who regularly fish reef and rubble know that
proper boat positioning comes with its own unique set of challenges. One of
which is what to do when the anchor physically gets stuck in the unforgiving
structure below – the same unforgiving structure that does such an excellent
job of attracting our quarry. Any wreck or reef fishermen worth his weight in
salt will tell you that it is not uncommon for the sharp, wide flukes of an
anchor to get lodged under a submerged boulder or deteriorating piece of sunken
debris. Even when you take the necessary precaution of setting your ‘hook’ in
what you hope is obstruction-free sand a safe distance from the jagged rubble
below, anchors do tend to slip and do, in fact, get seriously stuck!
While there are multiple manufacturers producing ‘breakaway’
type anchors in a variety of different configurations – which may, in fact, be
the perfect option when looking to upgrade – pre-manufactured breakaway anchors
are generally a little more costly and may not be the reasonable choice for the
average boater whose vessel is already equipped with a perfectly good Danforth style anchor.
One make-sense remedy is to rig a breakaway anchor on your
own. As long as you have access to a power drill, inexpensive plastic tie-wraps
and a bit of corrosion resistant hardware, you’ll never lose an anchor again!
With a breakaway anchor, if
your ‘hook’ gets seriously stuck, all a helmsman needs to do is position his or
her vessel just up-current or up-wind of the anchor and by applying enough
force, the wire ties will part and the anchor will now literally get pulled out
backwards – free of any obstructions. It may sound somewhat primitive, but in
reality, it’s that simple.
Rigging
a break-away anchor:
Step 1- Remove anchor from boat and place on stable surface.
Step 2- Drill a hole in middle of plate located at the center of the anchor
stock
Step 3- Affix end of anchor chain to hole with stainless steel
corrosion-resistant shackle (if shackle can not be obtained, a corrosion-resistant
bolt with washer and locking nut will suffice).
Step 4- Lay chain
along anchor shank and attach to shank eye with a few heavy-duty plastic wire
tie wraps.
Myth- Catapulting an
anchor over the bow will help it grab quicker and will increase its holding
power.
Fact – Not True! Tossing the anchor over
the bow offers no benefit. You’re better off safely easing the anchor into the
depths.
Anchoring
Tips:
Anchoring
a boat of any size in any depth of water is an exercise in physics. It is a
function of heavy gear, applied force, friction and proper angles. Regardless
if you are a novice boater or experienced seaman, lean towards the ‘heavy’ side
when selecting ground tackle to insure solid connections.
-Invest in an anchor winch - called a windlass - to retrieve
the anchor.
-Carry one complete anchor system onboard that is fully
ready to be deployed at all times. In the event of loss of power, hurriedly attempting
to connect all of the components won't be enjoyable when rapidly drifting
toward a reef or beach. If at all possible, carry a second anchor with chain
and rope securely stowed in a below deck compartment.
-Never attach the end of an anchor line to the stern of the
boat. The vessel won't ride properly on the rode – the length of rope and chain
connecting the anchor to the boat - resulting in water being forced over the
transom which can literally flood and ultimately capsize the vessel.
-The length of chain attached to the anchor stock must be
long enough and heavy enough to keep the anchor lying parallel to the seabed.
-The length of rode played out is called the scope. If you
think about the goal of keeping the anchor securely imbedded in the mud or
sand, you quickly realize that more scope is better. Measure scope as a ratio -
the length of the rode compared to the depth of the water. In calm weather, a
scope of 3:1 is generally sufficient. In heavy weather, as much as 7:1 may be
required.
Anchoring Myths & Facts:
-Myth: The heavier the anchor, the better.
-Fact: Modern designs and state-of-the-art
manufacturing processes have made anchors not only better, but lighter! Unlike
yesteryear when anchor holding power was based on bulk, nowadays, anchor design
has more effect on holding power than weight.
-Myth: Steel is the strongest
material for anchors.
-Fact: Not true! Many materials are now stronger than steel
such as high-tensile aluminum-magnesium alloy which is well suited for anchors
and is, pound-for-pound, more than twice as strong as steel.
-Myth: All anchors perform the same
way.
-Fact:
Wrong! Different designs and different materials make anchors perform
differently. It always pays to invest in the best performing anchor that you
can.
-Myth: Anchors that look alike are
alike.
-Fact:
Not! Looks can be deceiving. Technical designs, manufacturing processes and
metal alloys go through varying degrees of quality control making some anchors
just plain better. Be sure to look for independent testing of holding power and
approval from standard organizations.
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