|
 AS SEEN IN THE SEPT/OCT 2006 ISSUE
Dead-bait snapper rigs that get the job done!
There is no question that a large
percentage of the most commonly targeted species sought after
statewide, are members of the snapper complex. Tasty, hard fighting,
and often fairly easy to locate and catch during just about any month
of the year, snapper simply rule! Yellowtail, lane, vermillion,
mangrove, mutton, red, cubera, dog snapper, you name it, and a group
of anglers somewhere around Florida are getting ready to go hunt them
down. And while there are as many opinions as to the perfect snapper
rig as there are different species of snapper, a few have time and
again proven their effectiveness in a wide array of situations.
Nevertheless, serious anglers can’t get complacent.
To find
consistent success during your reef and wreck adventures, sinker
bouncers must always keep in mind that water depth, velocity of
current, prevalent size of targeted species, and variety of bait
being used, all play a major role when determining exactly what type
of terminal gear will best get the job done. Ideally, heading out to
the rubble with a trio of outfits rigged and ready will insure you
make the most of your bottom fishing bonanzas.
Free-line snapper rig: Perfect for
stealthy applications with little to no current.
-A free-line snapper rig is best suited
for enticing strikes over broken bottom or shallow water reefs and
wrecks in 20 ft. to 50 ft. of water. You’ll find free-line snapper
rigs to be the most effective when fished on 12 lb. to 15 lb.
spinning or casting gear.
-Start by joining your main running
line to forty-eight inches of 30 lb. fluorocarbon leader material
with your favorite line-to-line connection, such as an Albright or
Uni-to-Uni knot. Note that fluorocarbon leader is recommended
throughout because of its added level of abrasion resistance over
conventional monofilament. Finish off your free-line snapper rig by
simply tying on a 3/0 bait hook (snell or improved clinch knot works
best) to end of leader. In free-spool, drift your freshly cut chunk
or strip bait away from the boat at same rate as the chum is flowing.
Within no time, snapper investigating the sweet aroma of your chum
slick will locate your morsel, and will
inevitably make that fatal
mistake.
Knocker rig: Ideal for situations
with light to moderate current.
-When the goal is to slowly descend
your bait through the water column, knocker rigs are the way to go!
Just as simple to tie as a free-line rig, a knocker is excellent for
pinpointing the precise depth at which fish are feeding at. Not only
do knocker rigs go hand-in-hand with super yellowtail snapper
fishing, but this type of rig fished on 15 lb. to 20 lb. gear has
also proven its effectiveness with feisty lane snapper, along with
prized mangrove and mutton snapper which often roam off the bottom
while sniffing out the source of an inviting chum slick.
-Start by running your main running
line through a relatively small egg sinker, ¼ to ¾
ounce will usually do. Again, tie your running line to a forty-eight
inch length of 30 lb. fluorocarbon leader material with your favorite
line-to-line connection. Similar to a free-line rig, tie your 3/0
hook directly to the end of the leader material, and you’re ready
to fish. Like with the free-line rig, you should also avoid any type
of swivel in this application. The egg sinker should rest on the eye
of the hook while having the ability to sway freely up and down the
line. As you drift your chunk bait away from the boat at the same
rate as the current, the small amount of lead will keep the offering
in the strike zone while creating as little restriction as possible
when a strike occurs.
Wreck rig: Suitable for deep water
reefs and wrecks including situations with stiff currents.
-Commonly dubbed as a fish-finder rig,
wreck rigs are known for taking big mutton snapper, the largest
mangroves, and trophy size true American reds. With an extra long
leader, this type of rig allows the angler to present an appetizing
meal directly on the bottom without jeopardizing spooking the
intended quarry. Bottom fishermen statewide will regularly find that
the majority of gag and red grouper will fall victim to this
double-hook rig as well.
-Start by doubling the end of your main
running line with a Bimini twist. Run the double line through the
appropriate weight egg sinker. Ideally, you should rig with enough
lead to keep your bait directly on the bottom with your line as
vertical as possible regardless of depth of water or velocity of
current. For relatively shallow water reefs sitting below less than
90 ft. of water, two, three, or four ounce egg sinkers will usually
do the trick. Six to twelve ounces would be more appropriate for deep
water ledges and submerged debris nearing and exceeding 200 ft. With
the egg sinker now resting on your main running line, tie on a 100
lb. barrel-swivel. On the opposite end of the barrel-swivel, a twelve
to fifteen foot length of fluorocarbon leader material is a must.
Again, different scenarios will dictate the exact strength of leader
material required. For most deep water situations where big grouper
may also be a real possibility, having assorted leader spools of 50
lb., 60 lb., 80 lb., & 100 lb. test at arms reach should cover
all the bases. The extra long leader prevents spooking weary muttons
from sinker noise, the sound associated with your lead rolling along
the hard bottom below. Complete rig by snelling first hook, while
leaving enough tag line to tie on second hook. Slowly drop
double-hooked bait straight to the bottom, lock up, and hold on!
Save and Share this Article:
|
Tips and Tales 
